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Black OPS HailStorm Cryo TEC CPU overheating/water

Post Date: 2015-03-29
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karateCHOP View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		  Quote karateCHOP Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: Black OPS HailStorm Cryo TEC CPU overheating/water
    Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 3:27pm
I have zero experience with water cooling and this rig has an extensive setup to say the least. I do know my way around gaming PCs and have built/refurbished countless PCs for friends and family.

My best guess is that one of the three pumps has failed. I'm willing to tear this entire thing apart, clean it up and order any new parts I need to get this beast running like new.

What I need is some advice on where to go from here. I would included some photos of this hot mess but I get an error about preventing spam. If anyone here could lend me some water cooling wisdom I would be very happy. I know this is hardly enough information but I'm eager to give any additional information needed. I really need to get this running before The Witcher 3 comes out later this year! Anyways, thanks in advance for any advice!


The specs:

CPU: Intel i-7 980X Extreme Edition
GPU: x2 580X in SLI
RAM: 8GB Digital Storm
Asus Rampage III Motherboard
Titan Sound Card
Chassis Model: Black OPS HailStorm Sub-Zero Liquid Chilled Edition
Exterior Finish: - Matt Black
Trim Accents: - Matt Black
Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 980X 3.33GHz (Six-Core) (Extreme Performance)
ASUS Rampage III Extreme (Intel X58 Chipset) (Features USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s)
8GB DDR3 2000MHz GTX-8 Digital Storm Certified Extreme Performance (Highly Recommended)
1200W Digital Storm Certified (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible) (Silent Edition Highly Recommended)
2x SLI Dual (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 580 1.5GB (Includes PhysX Technology)
EVGA 2 Port SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Host Card (PCI-E Slot)
Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional (PCI-Express Slot Based)
Sub-Zero CPU Liquid Chilled System & Chipset + Dual Video Cards Liquid Cooling
Blue Tubing with High-Performance Fluid (UV Lighting Reactive)
Upgraded Chassis With LED Performance Fans (Blue) (Up to 6 Fans)
Internal Chassis Lighting System (UV) (Creates Glowing Effect for H20 Tubes)
Noise Suppression Package Stage 2 (Optimized Airflow & Fan Speeds with Noise Dampening Material)


Edited by karateCHOP - 29 Mar 2015 at 3:28pm
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bprat22 View Drop Down
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 3:53pm
Hi karateCHOP.. I'm guessing you've checked temps for the cpu with HWMONITOR or similar?

Make sure your reservoir is filled, topped off. You should be able to see the fluid moving.    

Make sure your radiators, behind the fans, are clean of dust buildup. If you haven't, get some canned air and blow them out with short bursts. Dust will plug the vanes and prevent proper cooling.

You can usually feel the pumps working.   

Cooling fans are all working?

Cryo Tec is a different animal and might need DS to help if these suggestions don't help. The Peltier plate for heat xfer has leads coming from it and need expert help if that's where the problem lies.

Good luck.



Edited by bprat22 - 29 Mar 2015 at 3:57pm
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karateCHOP View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		  Quote karateCHOP Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 4:54pm
I've filled the reservoir to the top. It was only half full before. I'm running the cooling system on it's own by jumping both PSU power wires and notice that one of my quick connectors is hot. The radiator that this tube leads to or from is hot as well.

There seems to be flow and I can feel the pumps vibrating/working. All the radiators are fairly clean. I've got one on the top another on the bottom and the hot one is on the backside. There are also 3 reservoirs. One big tube in the middle and two smaller ones on both sides near the front.

Any thoughts on the hot connector/radiator? The two larger radiators are cool to the touch. I'm not sure how it's getting so hot with the motherboard disconnected.

Update: I've decided to pull out the hot radiator in the back to investigate it more. It looked clean at first but after pulling it I can see it's caked with dust! On my way to the store to pick up some more canned air!

Thanks a ton for the reply!

Edited by karateCHOP - 29 Mar 2015 at 5:15pm
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bprat22 View Drop Down
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 5:48pm
My guess is you found the problem.

As far as the rad getting hot with no load on the cpu..... your system doesn't use the passive water block cooling, where water flows through it to carry the heat away from the cpu in contact. No cpu load means no heat.

Yours is the thermoelectric type, Peltier sandwiched plate with a hot and cold side. The cold side rests against the cpu and the hot side against the water block. The hot side has power leads to it.   A higher amperage heats the hot side, whether or not the cpu is hot. It's the higher applied heat that draws the heat from the cold side to the hot side.   The heat is there even with no mobo/cpu. It's the magic of the Peltier effect.

That's the theory.

Let us know if the dusting fixes it.

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FrankW View Drop Down
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Posts: 2254 		  Quote FrankW Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 5:56pm
If you have one RAD that is dirty it is a good chance your other RADS need a cleaning also. Your whole computer may need a good cleaning.

Frank
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karateCHOP View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		  Quote karateCHOP Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Mar 2015 at 9:28pm
I've cleaned out the small back radiator and the large top one. When I removed them more water drained from one of my smaller reservoirs so i added more. This makes me think that there is a pump issue now or some kind of blockage.

After getting things running again I was happy to feel that both radiators and top tubing was getting cold. I ran them for a while while disconnected from the motherboard and everything seemed to be doing its job. That hot tube makes sense after you educated me on thermoelectic cooling.

Hooked the motherboard back up, booted her up, installed Core Temp and watched the temp climb to 60degs after my fans turned off for some reason. Now the fans are shutting off a few mins after booting. They did this before I started cleaning it out as well. Obviously the fans not continuing to run is a major issue. I have a feeling if I solve that it will run cold as ice.

Any suggestion on what to check next? I knew cleaning out some dust to fix it was too good to be true! I know if fixed some of the problems at least. I really appreciate the help guys!

Edited by karateCHOP - 29 Mar 2015 at 10:11pm
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bprat22 View Drop Down
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 2:46am
Thought for sure the rad dust buildup would do it. Still was good to clean it.

Without knowing how the fans are connected, it's tough to say.   If they're hooked to the mobo, go into Bios and check the fan speed settings like Q Fan under Monitor tab I believe.   

Trying to remember, but there might be a control board associated with the cryo TEC. Don't know how it would work.

With the weekend over, I'd give DS a call.   I'd love to know what they or you find.   Time to get that cpu at frigid temps again.

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karateCHOP View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		  Quote karateCHOP Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 9:10am
Cleaning out all the caked on dust was a step in the right direction. The radiators run cold along with the tubing except the one heated for the peltier plate. I'm going to track down where the fans are controlled from next. Everything runs great until I plug in the motherboard .

Thanks again for the help!

Edited by karateCHOP - 30 Mar 2015 at 9:11am
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Alex View Drop Down
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Posts: 16314 		  Quote Alex Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 30 Mar 2015 at 11:17am
Sorry to hear about the issue. One loop of the system will get hot, but you have to control it, the cooler the hot side of the TEC loop is, the colder your CPU will be. That's how TEC cooling works.

It looks like the fans need to be spinning. Your control board might be turning them off.

If you can, override the control board's fans by running the fans directly to the power supply.
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