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WC cooler suggestion

Post Date: 2014-04-06
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kernols View Drop Down
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: WC cooler suggestion
    Posted: 06 Apr 2014 at 5:06pm
I'm going to take apart my old DS rig and put it inside the new define r4 blackout case. gonna set it up for the kids with games and whatnot. Right now its the v8 cooler on a asus p6t deluxe with a i7 940 running at 3.5ghz.

I want to switch it to a water cooler . looking at the h80i or h100i, do you think the h80i would be sufficient? i know the older chips warm up more and im thinking the h80i would probably cool it even better than the v8 esp since its going from a haf932 open case to a closed define r4. thoughts?
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Posts: 1627 		  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 06 Apr 2014 at 5:25pm
Don't even have to buy the H80i, you could just buy the h80 unless you want to use the corsair link software.

But yes, it'll suffice on cooling the i7 940. If you want to be extra sure, just put it into a push pull config, but we're talking maybe... MAYBE couple of degree's cooler with a push pull.

Of course the H100 will do a much better job, but the h80 will be plenty.

I enjoy corsair's closed loop cooling solutions. I've used the H50, the h100, the h110, and the h100i myself. All good coolers.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 06 Apr 2014 at 5:38pm
Yeah my girlfriend has the DS equiv of corsairs 120mm in her system and it works great. Just wanted to go for something dif than the v8 and make sure it will be enough. If i chose the h100i, i think i should have enough room with the r4 case and the asus p6t deluxe board. there isnt any heatsink at the top to stop the h100i from fitting.
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Posts: 1627 		  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 07 Apr 2014 at 3:22pm
The heatsink and the pump all all in one. If it can fit the V8, it can fight the "pump-heatsink combo" of the H100... and it is a great closed loop cooler. Most cases today can easily fit a 240mm radiator. It's almost becoming standard to fit a 360mm rad at very least.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 07 Apr 2014 at 4:03pm
reason why i was saying was because ive read about people trying to fit a 240mm rad in a define r4 and not having luck because of the top of the motherboard being close, some others have had to  move the rad over using the air vent holes instead of the holes for the screws. But none the less it should fit because i dont have anything in the way.
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Posts: 1627 		  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 08 Apr 2014 at 11:00am
Just man force it in. What's the worst that can happen.
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 08 Apr 2014 at 11:57am
Originally posted by Meller

Just man force it in. What's the worst that can happen.


LOL        Sometimes a nail gun and a pair of vise grips work wonders.   Hahaha

I kid.      No vise grips.  Big%20Smile
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Posts: 2551 		  Quote fstcvc Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 09 Apr 2014 at 8:14am
If you can't make it fit, you're not using a big enough hammer!!
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 09 Apr 2014 at 11:28am
well when getting things ready something happened and video doesnt show up no matter what i do. Monitor stays black but the pc starts up. tried 3 different cards and both pcie slots. still nothing..shorted something out maybe i dunno..i never did anything but change the v8 fan.  so i decided to make a new build with existing powersupply/ram and older gtx580.  bought a new asus mb/i5 4670k and h80i.  gonna do a mild overclock.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 18 Apr 2014 at 8:44pm
So I pretty much made a new build only using a few things from my old DS rig..there was a short somewhere on the old board and couldnt even turn it on. so using a card that was just sitting around, and just a few things from the old rig i bought the rest and put it together today. just wanted to show it off, first build i have done and i think its pretty sweet.
And btw that power supply kicks ass..i really like it.
Also the black vga cables will be going shortly, just waiting for another red in the mail, thats why its just thrown in there like that.





Edited by kernols - 18 Apr 2014 at 8:45pm
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 4:27am
Really nice job.    Looks great and thanks for the update.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 5:31am
Originally posted by bprat22

Really nice job.    Looks great and thanks for the update.


Thanks :)  I must of gotten a good chip as well, im idling at 25 degrees on all cores and i only have it oc'd to 4.1 ghz at the moment but its highest core was 55 on prime 95. looks like ill be able to crank it up if i want too lol
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 9:17am
   Sounds like a low vcore for that temp/clock combo.    Just gotta watch the vcore.  Voltage kills. Big%20Smile
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 19 Apr 2014 at 7:19pm
quick question, i updated the bios to current and now my idle temps are about 5 c higher and load is roughly the same...is it now a different readout because of the new bios? thing is ihad to put in new oc stuff and im able to now go lower in vcore from 1.128 to 1.115 at same 4.1 ghz.     is this normal?

also i tried resetting the jumper for cmos to reset and it wont revert back to default bios.


Edited by kernols - 19 Apr 2014 at 8:40pm
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 3:33am
Updating bios does update cpu/mobo code so I guess it's possible but really tough to say in general. A lower vcore for the same clock, even with a slight temp increase I think would be great.

To reset bios settings , not bios version, the jumper should work but every board has a different procedure, like power off/on or just letting it sit for a few minutes. You'd have to check the mobo manual. You could do it through software and go into Bios and hit F5 for default then save and exit.   The lower right of Bios screen shows the hot keys. F5 usually.

Hope this helps and have fun.

Edited by bprat22 - 20 Apr 2014 at 3:34am
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Posts: 1627 		  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 4:27am
Reading back up on some of the replies... either we're the ultimate man advice-givers, or we're the worst IT support group there is. Either way, the radiator will fit if you follow our tips.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 5:15am
I noticed lastnight just too late to come on and reply here was that now real temp AND hwmonitor both are the same temps.   real temp before the bios change was always lower than hwmonitor. I can have both up now and see the same numbers. so is it possible real temp was giving a false reading and now the update helped a proper reading?

the most important thing i guess is the load and that stayed the same basically, im not hitting above 59 at 4.1 ghz
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Posts: 20391 		  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 5:50am
Originally posted by Meller

Reading back up on some of the replies... either we're the ultimate man advice-givers, or we're the worst IT support group there is. Either way, the radiator will fit if you follow our tips.


LOL LOL    Nailed it , Meller.  


kernols.... Neither HWMonitor or Real temp use their own sensors to get the readings. Being dependent on  the imbedded sensors in the silicon chips and the software written for it, any of these programs can be off a bit.   They each, probably, interpret the data a little different.    I found both to be accurate and a few degrees either way isn't an issue.  

Your temps are great.  Wish I had those temps. Hahaha    Although mid to high  60's is also excellent.   
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Posts: 9459 		  Quote Snaike Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 6:16am
Originally posted by bprat22

Neither HWMonitor or Real temp use their own sensors to get the readings. Being dependent on  the imbedded sensors in the silicon chips and the software written for it, any of these programs can be off a bit.   They each, probably, interpret the data a little different. .   
 
Which is why my HWMonitor says my mobo runs at 125ºC, while Speccy says 29ºC.  Best to always get a 2nd opinion.
 
 
 
Originally posted by Meller

Reading back up on some of the replies... either we're the ultimate man advice-givers, or we're the worst IT support group there is. Either way, the radiator will fit if you follow our tips.
 
Hilarious... absolutely hilarious.  Thank you for the chuckle today.  LOL
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Apr 2014 at 6:38am
Thanks for the input, i do know that after the bios update the temp readings are different but only on idle so im thinking it affected it somehow..but im not gonna worry, the load temps i think are great for this chip espically after reading how haswell can be pretty warm. mind you im only a mild 4.1 but still.
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Posts: 1627 		  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 25 Apr 2014 at 3:24am
Firstly, idle temps are pointless. Unless they are sitting high, just ignore them. I mean, you could have an identical build to someone else, same cpu, same cooler, in the same room... everything the same.

You could idle at 30 degree's where he idles at 26 degree's. The real determining factor is running Prime for a couple of hours and seeing it's load temps.

Don't get me wrong. If you're idling in the 40's... something not right. It could be seated slightly wrong (the cooler). But overall, don't worry too much about idle.
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Posts: 248 		  Quote kernols Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 27 Apr 2014 at 4:21pm
So everything is running great and  have a question about the corsair link software.  I havent installed it but would like to only change the led color of the pump to match the system build.  its the defualt white/blue now. i know i have to use the usb cable to the mb and than grab the software but my ? is will installing it change any settings when i open it up/install it or will it all stay the same, act like a monitoring system and then allow me to change the color.  I have the fans hooked up to my own fan controller in the front, so the only thing plugged in is 3 pin to mb cpu fan and sata power for power obv.

Btw here is the final look after changing out the gpu cables and tidying it up.
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