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[Advice] - 10yr computer build for Wife, help?

Post Date: 2021-05-14

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darbebo View Drop Down
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  Quote darbebo Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: [Advice] - 10yr computer build for Wife, help?
    Posted: 14 May 2021 at 9:20pm
Budget:
[4000-5000]

Expectations:
[Last ~10yrs without dying, future proofing, we have NO DESIRE to upgrade, so this is a buy it and forget it for 10yrs build, Able to flex/play any game with highest quality]

Usage:
[It's actually a LOW bar ....all she does is Gaming + websurfing, work from home via remote in + excel ...
.MONITOR - she has running 2x DELL S2417DG, she will NOT be changing monitors since we got them relatively recent..so that should help narrow graphics a bit... ]

Special Needs:
[Want to play Biomutant , dota 2, last 10yrs, flex whenever need be]

Saved Ticket #: [3904785]

Specifications:
Hi guys - I'm back I guess. Bought wife's computer from DS back in 2012. It has a GTX670 + i5-3570k + Intel 520 series SSD. We are VERY pleasantly surprised that it's still going strong.

We usually only play DOTA 2 and after 9yrs of updates, she can no longer afford to play the game at highest quality and large fights seem to "lag" a little, not that bad if we turn down the quality. Then reality further sink in when she plans to play the new game "BioMutant", which recommends GTX960...so this brings me here.

I've been completely out of the chipset world so bear with me with my questionable choices, some of my concerns are:

1. CPU - AMD or Intel? I heard AMD's been kicking butt for the last 18 months but is this still the case? Are AMD chips more "stable/reliable" than Intel that it'll last her another 10yrs? Is Ryzen 9 5950X overkill? The reason I'm "overkilling" is so we can last that 10yrs.

2. Motherboard - is 2 PCI-E devices enough? typically what do i need it for?

3. RAM - i chose the 32gb not because its 32gb but because it's a brand name, thoughts? I remember generic names are a big nono back in 2012...

4. Power supply - same, i know i don't need 1200w, but i'm going for the brand name...

5. Hard Drives- I thought the M.2 SSD are better than non M.2? If yes, why is the M.2 2-TB 970EVO LESS expensive than the 860 PRO? Also, any thoughts of me getting 2 of the M.2 970s? Should i just go for 1 4tb drive and forget about it? Again, this needs to last ~9yrs..

6. Is the H20 Stage 2 cooling enough?

7. Is NVDIA graphics card still the better pick or is it AMD's court these days?


WHEW - ok thank you please let me know your thoughts!!!



Edited by darbebo - 15 May 2021 at 12:38am
Number of DS rig owned: 2
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hoserator View Drop Down
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2021 at 1:51am
Welcome back. Awesome
I don't know enough to answer all your questions but I'll try. Using you numeration:

1. right now AMD is king. The latest Intel chip totally underwhelmed IMO, and the next one is for year's end, maybe;

2. 1 PCIe slot will be for the gpu, if you need a WI-FI or other PCIe based card you will need accordingly;

3. I'd go with 64GB for the time you are wanting it to last. Right now 16GB is the sweet spot but already MS's Flight Simulator recommends 32GB!

4. I always go for more so....I wish DS had better quality though. Last time I looked they were all only 80 Plus Gold:

5. The pricing is due to availability and who knows what factors. That said, M.2 is only a form factor (size). From slow to fast, HDD (SATA)- SSD (SATA) - SSD (PCI-e);

6. It is the best you can get without going Hydrolux. Only wish DS had a better list of options;

7. IMO NVDA is still king.

Hope this gets you going. The configurator gurus will no doubt show up and enlighten both of us. Enjoy. Smile



Edited by hoserator - 15 May 2021 at 1:53am
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Cretae View Drop Down
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  Quote Cretae Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2021 at 4:56am
I'm not gonna modify much because you have the whole 10 year thing as though that happens all the time. Here perhaps more than other places, but you do know electronic parts can fail, yes?

    3904982    $4372

The latest Intel chips are finally here, but I think AMD is still best for you. The 5950X is a waste, but on the off chance games someday can use more than 8 cores, the 12 core 5900X is for you.

I upgraded the motherboard for longevity. The more money, the more feature rich, but also the better thermal handling to last longer.

32 GB of RAM will be enough for 10 years. The name brand gets you slightly slower RAM and a light bar, nothing else. RAM is strictly a commodity. DS branded RAM has been totally reliable as long as I've been around, and that's before 2012. For the record, it's known to be Adata, one of the largest manufacturers in the world.

The name brand on the PSU doesn't mean much either, but the overkill won't hurt you there for longevity and you'll have a better warranty.

M.2 NVMe drives run off the PCIe bus, and are faster than SATA SSDs. They plug directly into the motherboard, leaving room for lots of storage upgrades if needed. I have recommended a 980 PRO paired with a 2TB 970 EVO. The 980 is a PCIe Gen 4 part, and happens to be about the fastest NVMe around. If you care, there it is. If not, and you prefer the 4 TB set-up, know that the 970 EVOs are PCIe Gen 3 parts, and half the speed of the 980 PRO. Not saying they're not fast, it's up to 5x faster than a SATA drive you're used to, but the 980 PRO is a whole different animal. Whichever way you decide, do yourself a big favor and isolate your C drive on about a 150-200 GB partition on the large drive. Windows, apps, maintenance software on a compact drive protects from having to wipe one or two TB for a fresh Win install, and makes scanning on one of these NVMe speedsters a matter of seconds, not minutes.

DS may be trying to reduce inventory on the PCIe 3 SSDs they have as PCIe 4 will rule now that Intel has evolved to that platform. It's a killer bargain IMO for secondary storage.

H20 Stage two is all you need. They come from the same factory that makes Corsair branded all-in-ones.

Nvdia's RTX3070 is the best pick for 1440p gaming IMHO.

Hope it helps.
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  Quote darbebo Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2021 at 10:06am
Thank you hoserator and Cretae for your quick input.

I think i'm close to set.

One additional question is generated from Cretae's comment on ""isolate your C drive on about a 150-200 GB partition on the large drive. Windows, apps, maintenance software on a compact drive protects from having to wipe one or two TB for a fresh Win install, and makes scanning on one of these NVMe speedsters a matter of seconds, not minutes

I'd thought have 2 drives would serve that purpose, but I guess not. So not only do I have to 2 drives (main drive for windows + Apps + most played games, and secondary drive for storage + less played games), I now have to further partition 200gb out from the main drive?

Is this necessary? We've never reformatted at all so trying not to do that if we can help it. Also when you say scan, why/when would we scan?

If I ask DS to do what you wrote above, will they do that?

If laziness and lack of knowledge takes over, and we just stick with the 2 SSDs without further partitioning the primary, what's the worst that can happen?

Number of DS rig owned: 2
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 May 2021 at 3:02am
No worries. The worst is if you have to reload Windows for any reason and the drive is not partitioned you will also wipe the rest of the data you have stored therein.
Scans will be "slower".

I have a non-partitioned 1TB OS drive (980 Pro) and never notice slowdowns but I am permanently in awe of the whole thing with the tech.

You can specify that you primary is partitioned, I don't know if DS will though. It is not hard at all.

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  Quote Cretae Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 May 2021 at 3:30am
Partitioning is a simple matter these days. windows has a wizard, and you do it in real time. When your computer arrives, the whole drive 1 will be "C". In the Win wizard you can re-size the C drive to any amount of GB you choose, and when you execute, the rest of your drive is separate and receives a new drive letter automatically. Probably "E" since you already have a secondary drive. If it was the old days, I wouldn't bother. I comes in really handy when you back up your "C" for safety. It's small, and with USB 3 it's done in a couple of minutes.

As to why you would scan your primary drive. That's what happens when you run anti-virus, anti-malware, CCleaner for "taking out the trash', etc.

As hose says, the worst is to have to wipe the whole drive. 1TB is a lot of stuff, and could take hours/days to re-install.
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  Quote Cretae Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 May 2021 at 3:31pm
Just FYI, all this talk about backing up a smaller drive, etc. got me thinking it had been awhile since I cloned my C drive. I have a 6 core 8700K CPU. and a 500Gb 860 EVO NVMe drive (M.2). 2 generations prior to the 980 and a good deal slower, but faster than any SATA SSD. I have 464GB available n the drive (SSDs must sequester a good bit of capacity for what's know as "garbage collection") and 227 are used. I have Windows, a very few apps, maintenance software, and 78GB of games from Epic and Origin I wanted to keep separate from my Steam library.

The cloning was complete in 35 minutes. Note that had I been cloning a C drive with, say, 900GB, it would have taken 4 times that long. I'd guess cloning 200 GB on the system you will have might go 20 minutes. Without any games at all on mine, I would have a bit over 150GB total on my C drive after 3.4 years, which is why I thinK a 200GB partition would be plenty. You can easily re-size an SSD whenever you need to as long as there's room. There's no issue with where the data gets located like with an HDD.

When it's not a lengthy chore, I think folks will opt to back up or clone for safety more often, and that's a good thing. The same goes for scanning, which is a VERY good thing. My Malwarebytes scan took 2 minutes and 37 seconds. Remember, I'm a bit larger than ideal, and quite a bit slower than you will be.
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