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Advice needed on possible build, 3-4k+

Post Date: 2013-02-11

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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: Advice needed on possible build, 3-4k+
    Posted: 11 Feb 2013 at 2:37pm
Hello, I would like some input on a possible purchase. I've been looking for a couple months now and I plan to place the order either today or tomorrow (might have to delay til next week to give you all time to give me some advice though) if I can figure out what I want. I need plenty of adivce though.

My friends, one who runs his own computer shop actually, and I have been shopping around. We started looking on newegg thinking of building it myself but that idea quickly went out the window. Then a friend suggested an Alienware but I'm hesitant to go with them. I think they're overrated and you mainly pay for name not parts or performance. I've pretty much been all over the place but now I've come here to see what Digital Storm can offer. I haven't heard much about Digital Storm but from what I can tell you guys are trustworthy and do good work. I look forward to purchasing my next system from here, if I can come to find the exact system I want through customization.

We've been looking on this website now for a couple of weeks but I still am no closer to deciding. My friends have been giving me advice on what type of parts to get and they've been helping me with configurations but to me it's all a little too much. I'm having a hard time deciding but I do not want to overlook something obvious or make an uninformed choice so now I'm posting this.

My Budget:
Originally I wanted to go with around 2,000 but quickly I realized with the parts I want it'll be much closer to 3-4k. Probably end up going 4k+. I have a budget of approx. $4500 now with a little wiggle room to possibly go closer to $5,000 because I do have certain expectations in mind as far as what parts I want. I know the price can add up pretty fast but I want what I want so what can I say. Still I'm trying for as little mark up pricing as possible because if it is too much I may decide to just buy the parts off newegg and have a local PC shop build it for $50, an estimate I got from them already. That's only if it gets too pricey though because I trust Digital Storm more then them with their warranty, packaging, and testing of the system. I may have to delay purchase or I may just have to settle for something similar but less expensive if it gets too pricey though.

Expectations: This is my first foray into buying a performance PC and I'm doing this, buying such a nice PC, as a way to kind of protect myself down the road so that I can be able to play future games. It should meet game requirements for at least 5 years, if not more, running games at "graphical max" and work for me running games for a much longer time at lower settings. I don't plan on doing much upgrading to it as far as parts go too soon but I know down the road, eventually, I'll need to so it's got to have that upgrade-ability and it should be easily upgradeable too because I don't really know what I'm doing inside there (will probably end up taking it to my friend actually). Bottom line is I need a future-safe PC, one that'll last me quite awhile because I don't want to buy another whole system 5 years from now.

Usage: First and foremost, I want a good level of Gaming performance as that's the 'main' thing I'll be doing on the computer. Games out now and games in the future. I'm not a "graphic" guy but it's always nice to have better graphics. Mainly I just want to be able to play games smoothly, on higher settings, and have no problems while maybe running other programs from time to time like Skype or Web browser. Which leads me to the next thing.

I also plan to do a lot of
General Multitasking so it's gotta be able to handle that. I will be using a capture card software with the PC so I need it to be able to do rendering and uploading videos to youtube but also photo editing. Aside from that the basic web surfing. I want to be able to browse and not have issues with watching 1080p videos or keeping tons of different tabs open and having my browser crash or not respond. I probably won't ever take the computer to it's max usage just mainly basic gaming and multitasking on the web.

I don't watch movies or listen to too much music but I might down the road so basically I just am looking for something that'll handle anything I throw at it. It's not just for gaming but that is the main, if not the only, reason I am getting high end parts.

Special Needs:  I'm a very bad user right now when it comes to PC use, like the poster child for what not to do. I don't put my tower in a very good place for air flow right now. It's basically tucked away inside a desk thingy I have my TV standing on. I'm sure it's all dusty as hell inside it because I don't ever take it out for cleaning. Also I never shut my PC off.

I would like to get a tower case that's easy to access the inside (like side panel access) because mainly right now it's the little screws that's holding me back from going in and cleaning out the dust with one of those air cans. Also I'de like my case to let as little dust in as possible. Thirdly I need things like mic jack, usb access, and all that on the tower to be accessible because I'm sick of having the tower's backside facing me just so I can plug in stuff and have room for cords to reach where I need. Noise level is a non issue. I don't need this to be a quiet computer, fan noise or just running of the parts does not bother me at all. I want it to be plenty coool (probably going to have to be liquid cooled closed system because I don't want to have to do maintenance) and safe for the parts, that's the main thing.

I do not need it to be flashy with lights and all that, though I may decide to get them if it's not too much. Mainly though I'll be storing the tower out of site, probably somewhere where airflow isn't that great, so I just need the best parts I can to keep everything running good, not the flashy stuff that's a waste of money (IMO).

Purchase time: I don't really care how long it takes but I guess I would think a month is maybe a little much. I don't need it next day or anything I can wait. I've been patient long enough as is.

___________________________________________________________________



Mainly I have only an idea of what level of parts I want and don't know if there compatible or not, or if they are even what I need for what I'm trying to do. I have no knowledge of things like matching parts, overclocking, liquid cooling, or much when it comes to building PC's so I would say I need plenty of config advice.

Here's an idea of what the components/parts I feel strongly about...

Processor: I want a i7 for sure. Probably the 6 core version but definitely no less than quad core. Anything 3.5GHz or better sounds fine to me and I know with overclocking I've seen them go into the 4.6 GHz range but I don't really need the highest overclock. I just don't want something that will be going out of date soon especially if the better or newer version is only a little bit more ya know. I heard there is a bunch of talk on z77 vs. x79, and the longevity of the cpu's in each gaming vs. other stuff all that stuff I don't know about. If I was to choose myself I was thinking the Intel Core i7 Extreme Edition 3960X 3.3GHz (Six-Core) (Extreme Performance)? I know it doesn't meet the GHz I originally stated but with overclocking it would be closer to 4 GHz, no? Is that one newer, or going out of date already compared to Intel i7 3770k?


Motherboard: I was thinking ASUS Rampage (my friend said to get an extreme edition ASUS for sure)


Graphics Card:
Most likely going to go with the GeForce GTX 690. When doing research I was looking at and thinking about maybe do an SLI rig with twin GTX 680's because my computer building friend said go with two graphics cards anyways cuz they help each other out but then I thought that is almost getting too complicated for a user like me in the event I run into issues with the dual SLI setup I wouldn't know what to do, so I like the idea of just one card and the 690 just gives me a great video card out of the box that'll last me a long time no problem before I need to replace it. Besides I hear the 690 is just about close to twice the performance of the GTX 680 and with lower power requirements than a twin card setup. I think it best to just go with the GTX 690; a dual-GPU beast that offers a few advantages over the SLI solution and why buy two cards when one will do? There will be a lot of wasted performance in the vast range of usage scenarios if I get either because. simply put a GTX 680/690 simply isn't going to be taxed enough to justify its price at 1,920 x 1,080 in any modern day game but I do want future proof parts and this will last me a very long time before it's anywhere near outdated.

System Memory: I was originally thinking 32GB RAM but my friend said I won't need more than 16GB RAM. However they did say if possible to get all 16GB in one stick rather than two sticks of 8GB because it allows for future upgradeability to install more ram sticks? They also said if I do go with two sticks of 8GB to make sure they are the same because they work better when they are? Lastly they said be sure to get one(s) with good MHz because GB isn't everything. They said 1600 MHz or better and that they go up to 1866 and 2100? I don't know all the technical talk about the parts but I hope that makes sense and can help you suggest to me something that I can look at before I decide if I do want to go all the way up to 32GB if the price is right.

Hard Drive Set 1: I was told to get a Solid State Drive to run my operating system off of only and maybe a few main games so that it'll all run super fast with load times and faster boot up and what not. That sounds all fine and dandy but I have never heard of these before and have no clue what size to get. I did a little research and from what I can tell 120-150 GB seems to be the norm. Windows is good for 30Gigs or so, leaving room for several games. All depends how many games, their size and room for saves though and many people are saying SSDs fill up quickly. That 125GB range is almost not enough especially if your installing games and mods and all that so maybe I'll need closer to 250GB. Also I was told that SSDs have a kind of "Turbo mode" when less than half full. Fill them beyond that and they downgrade to "Non-Turbo mode" and their performance decreases. Better to have the extra max-performance headroom, yes? I know I cannot really afford the ultimate 500GB SSDs out there because they don't fit within my budget but I should be able to swing a 250 GB unit right? Something in that 240/256GB sweet spot. My friend who runs his own shop talked about Samsung coming out with a new 200 Megabit speed (which is supposedly the fastest) SSD. I don't know how much they run but that sounds like something I'de be interested in for the right price otherwise something else that's near the top of the market not bottom level SSD.

Hard Drive Set 2: I'll also need a place to store everything else so a 1TB hard drive is also in order. I was told to be sure to get one with good RPM because that's the speed of it. Something like 7,200? I don't know. I was thinking maybe even bumping it up to 2TB if the price increase is not that much that way I don't have to buy additional storage down the road. I don't need too much storage space for anything except for a large library of games though and most I can uninstall after awhile of not playing them.

Extreme Cooling System: I have no clue what I'll need but I know two things. 1. I need liquid cooling. 2. I don't want to have to deal with maintenance, refilling/flushing/cleaning the tubes and detaching/reattaching to parts because the risk of me doing this and f*cking something up is too great for comfort. I'de rather get a closed system. I just don't know if one will do the job to keep my system cool because remember I rarely ever shut my PC down. It's always running. I imagine I'll have to have fans and liquid cooling but this is the one area I need the most advice in. Please help me out.

Power Supply: All I know is with powerful parts you need enough power to run them safely. I was told DO NOT skimp on the power supply but at the same time don't overpay for one. I don't want to get one of the bottom ones but I honestly can't see myself needing the best one out there either. Something in the middle should work, no? I don't know anything about them so I need a good suggestion here.

Case/Chassis Model: I have absolutely no idea what I'll need in this regard. I've seen some that I like such as the ODE Level 4 which seems to have good design with good airflow and features I want like plenty of USB 3.0 ports but I need it to support a closed system liquid cooling and I don't know if that one can. Something that may be worth mentioning is I plan to put it in a confided area so the less height the better. (Though if not possible I can work around this and find a new spot.) I know the case is the one thing you look at day after day and will last for years so it's important.

Windows OS: I was thinking about going with the new Windows 8 but everybody keeps telling me go with Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit.

Optical Drive 1: I don't really need an epic one but at the least maybe something capable of DVD Burning? I also was thinking Blue Ray but I hear Windows 7 does not support Blu-Ray movie playback natively and that I'll need to purchase Blu-Ray movie playback software to watch Blu-Ray movies. All that stuff sounds nice but I don't know how much I would use it but it's always nice to have the option to do it. I don't like skimping on any area but this is one of lesser importance because I plan to download a lot of stuff from Steam not buy too many games from disc.

Monitor: N/A I'm using my HDTV as a monitor now and honestly I think I like the utility of being able to switch between it. I don't got much room in my room for a desk anyways. I know it's not perfect for gaming and that many prefer monitors but for now it works for me. I'm not playing many FPS's where I need a high end monitor anyways so. Eventually though I may want a dual monitor set-up so it might be good to leave that option open.


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Like I said I'm a noob when it comes to customizing and building PC's so don't be afraid to give me your best advice even if it differs from what it seems I want. I started with the hail storm but I I didn't know where to start. Just keep in mind I tend to lean towards the better quality parts rather than the budget parts yet I still want to feel I'm getting some value for the amount of money I'm spending. I know I'll be paying a little extra mark up price for DS to built it compared to just buying the parts myself and doing it but Digital Storm's claim to excellence is that they don't charge massive premiums for what other boutique builders charge.






Edited by Cipher_8 - 11 Feb 2013 at 3:42pm
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Feb 2013 at 4:26pm
Hi Cipher_8 and welcome to the forums,
 
Here is a build for you to look at.  See comments below.
 
Ticket # 786162  Price $3790
 
Chassis Model: Special Deal Hot Seller - Cooler Master 942 HAF X
Exterior Finish: - Standard Factory Finish
Trim Accents: - Standard Factory Finish
Processor: Intel Core i7 3930K 3.2GHz (Unlocked CPU for Extreme Overclocking) (Six-Core)
Motherboard: ASUS Sabertooth X79 (Intel X79 Chipset) (Features USB 3.0 and SATA 6Gb/s)
System Memory: 32GB DDR3 1600Mhz Digital Storm Certified Performance Series (Highly Recommended) (Hand Tested)
Power Supply: 1050W Corsair Pro Silver 1050HX (Dual/Triple/Quad SLI Compatible)
Expansion Bay: - No Thanks
Hard Drive Set 1: Operating System: 1x (240GB Solid State (By: Intel) (Model: 520 Series)
Set 1 Raid Options: - No Thanks
Hard Drive Set 2: Multimedia\Data: 1x (1TB Western Digital Caviar (7200 RPM) (Model: Black Edition)
Hard Drive Set 3: Backup\Misc.: - No Thanks
Optical Drive 1: ASUS Blu-Ray Player/DVD Writer (Play Blu-Ray and Burn DVDs) (Model: BC-12B1ST)
Optical Drive 2: - No Thanks
Internet Access: High Speed Network Port (Supports High-Speed Cable / DSL / Network Connections)
Video Card: 2x SLI Dual (NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680 2GB (PhysX) (Overclocked EVGA)
Add-on Card: - No Thanks
Sound Card: Integrated Motherboard Audio
Extreme Cooling: H20: Stage 2: Corsair H100i 240mm Radiator Liquid CPU Cooler (Extreme-Performance Edition)
H20 Tube Color:- Not Applicable, I do not have a FrostChill or Sub-Zero LCS Cooling System Selected
Chassis Airflow: Standard Factory Chassis Fans
Internal Lighting: - No Thanks
Enhancements: - No Thanks
Chassis Mods: - No Thanks
Noise Reduction: - No Thanks
LaserMark: - No Thanks
Boost Processor: Stage 1: Overclock CPU 4.0GHz to 4.4GHz
Boost Video Card: - No Thanks, Please do not overclock my video card(s)
Boost Memory: - No Thanks, Please do not overclock my memory
Boost OS: - No Thanks, Please do not tweak the services on the operating system
Windows OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional (64-Bit Edition)
Recovery Tools: Windows Recovery Toolkit (Bundled with Windows CD)
Virus Protection: - No Thanks
Office: - No Thanks
Game: FREE NVIDIA Bundle - Assassins Creed III (Digital Download Code for all GeForce GTX 600 Series)
Display: - No Thanks
Surge Shield: - No Thanks
Speakers: - No Thanks
Keyboard: - No Thanks
Mouse: - No Thanks
External Storage: - No Thanks
Exclusive T-Shirt: FREE: Digital Storm T-Shirt - Black (Extra Large)
Priority Build: - No Thanks, Ship Within 10-15 Business Days After Order Is Successfully Processed
Warranty: Life-time Expert Customer Care with 3 Year Limited Warranty

 
I started with the HAF X case.  It is the best air cooled case DS offers.  You CPU will be liquid cooled but the rest of your components will still be air cooled.  This case has a front intake 230mm (Red LED) fan, a side intake 200mm fan (blows directly on the graphics cards) and a back 140mm exhaust fan.  It comes with a top 200mm exhaust fan but that will be replaced by the radiator for the CPU cooler.  I am not sure how much space you have as this case is almost 2 ft tall.  If that will not fit then you will need a smaller case. 
 
The big difference between the Z77 vs X79 is the memory bandwidth and the number of PCIe graphics lanes.  The Z77 is dual chanel memory with 16 lanes and the X79 is quad chanel memory with 40 lanes.  Games do not use the extra memory bandwidth found in X79 systems.  The X79 shines when doing video editing and rendering which you said you do so I put in the i7 3930K CPU.  The i7 3960K would be overkill but that is your choice.
 
I put in the ASUS X79 Sabertooth motherboard.  The Rampaige IV Extreme is a great board but unless you are going quad SLI (4 graphics cards) it really isn't needed.  The Sabertooth also has a longer warranty 5 yrs vs 3 yrs.
 
I put in 32GB of RAM.  Games don't use more that 8GB but with your video editing and rendering the extra RAM will be used.  Plus it isn't that expensive these days.
 
I added the 240GB Intel 520 SSD.  It is a very reliable drive and has a 5yr warranty.
 
I added the 1TB Western Digital Caviar (Black addition) HDD.  This is faster the the standard 1TB Western Digital drive.
 
I put in the Corsair 1050HX Power supply.  This will give you plenty of power with headroom to expand later if need.  Also has a 7 yr warranty.
 
I used 2 GTX 680 graphics cards instead of the GTX 690.  The GTX 690 is actually 2 GTX 680s (slightly detuned) on the same board.  It still runs in SLI.  Here is a link comparing the performance of 2 GTX 680s vs a GTX 690.
Also if any thing goes wrong with the GTX 690 you have to replace the whole card where if one of the GTX 680s goes out you only have to replace the card.
Also the GTX 690 has a single radial fan in the center of the card.  This pushes half the heat out the back of the computer and the other half gets dumped into the case.  Not some thing I would recommend in a closed space.
Actually you could get by with just 1 GTX 680 since you are using your HDTV.  You could drop down to 1 GTX 680 then add a 2nd later if you find you need it.
 
I used the Corsair H100i CPU cooler.  This is a sealed liquid cooling unit so no maintenance and comes with its own fan speed control.
 
I put in Windows 7 PRO.  You need the PRO version for RAM over 16GB.
 
I used stage 1 OC.  You said you are going to put this in a closed space so I wouldn't go with stage 2.  It would be better if you could have this on top of your desk or a small table next to your desk.
 
I hope you find this helpful.
 


Edited by Asangard - 11 Feb 2013 at 4:32pm
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Feb 2013 at 8:57pm
Can DS oc stage 2 with 32GB of ram? I would go stage 2 oc and 16GB of ram, faster cpu means faster pc, unless you need 32GB of ram for your use.

690 = Bad idea, always stay away from dual gpu cards.

I would with noctua cooler or subzero for cooling, if you don't want to deal with lc then just get the noctua, you gonna get the same perfomrance anyways, real LC performance starts at stage 4 cooling.

Asangard gave you some good info also

in the same anadtech link Asangard posted you could do a little work and see that sli 670 will give you around the same performance depending on your res.

Edited by DST4ME - 11 Feb 2013 at 9:00pm
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 2:26am
EDIT: Damnit I had a nice reply post but because there was a link it deleted all that I had typed when I went to post it, cuz i cannot post links? Anyways I'll work on re-typing it I guess.


Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 2:40am
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 2:28am

Thank you for your replies. I'm going to wait and see if I anyone else posts before I decide on anything but I do have some question about your suggestions...

Firstly I've changed my mind and I plan to put it out in the open now, not in a inclosed area, because there is no air flow. Would you change your mind on the OC level, or cooling system, or maybe the case now that I've decided to not put it in an inclosed area next to my tv?

I appreciate all of the suggestions but some of the parts I was pretty determined to get. The CPU is one of those parts I was going to go overboard on. I'm the type of guy that will purchase the most powerful components I can, regardless of if it will be used fully or not. I like to have it "just to have it" I guess. You did open my eyes to the difference though between the z77 and x79 though. I think I could get by with the 3930k but for only $300 more right now because of clearance the i7 3960X is probably the route I'm going to go. Is it a x79 though?

The ASUS Rampage was another part I just wanted. I may not use quad SLI right now but down the road I may.
 
32GB of RAM sounds good. Like you said gaming won't use that much but through video editing and rendering the extra RAM will be used. I just don't know how much of that I'll be doing to justify the cost of it but I tried before on my current PC and it struggled mightily so I would like my new PC to be able to handle it without any issues.

A main question I have is why will my HDTV not be good enough? If it's running 1920x1080 / 60Hz? I know a smaller computer monitor is better for games than a 42" TV but I don't play Crysis or CoD or many FPS's so I think the TV is perfect for games I do play like RPG's and Strategy games like Civ and Total War on high settings.

I don't want a single 680. I know your just trying to save me money but I don't want to skimp on Video Card because I don't want to have to upgrade it as soon as the next batch of games come out. I haven't decided yet which I want between dual 680's or a 690 though but know that I'll take your suggestions into mind. It sounds like the 690 is not as much as a plug in and forget type part as I thought. I guess I wasn't aware that the 690 ran in SLI anyways and that it's heat dissipation would cause some problems. I don't really know what to do but your making me think the dual 680's are safer than a single 690.
 


 


Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 2:49am
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 3:26am
I'll just chime in to say the rig Asangard showed you is the same rig from me, also.     Great case, quality mobo and all the cpu needed.

The Noctua D14 is the only change, it is quiet and the best in reliability if you're looking for longevity. The sealed units like H100 have a good reputation but still more to go wrong.

If money isn't an issue then, yeah, you can splurge on everything but the extra cache on the 3960 you'll never use unless you're heavily into rendering, etc.

Keep in mind that there is no 'future proof'.   Whatever you put together now will need new graphic cards in 2-3 years if you want to stay on top.     

For thr money you're spending on a quality rig I would get a gaming monitor.    Lots are happy with tvs but chevk out the Dell UltraSharps.   

Good luck.


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  Quote ArkansasWoman777 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 4:13am
I agree with everyone else that said Asangard gave you a pretty good build and info.
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 4:57am
Originally posted by bprat22



The Noctua D14 is the only change, it is quiet and the best in reliability if you're looking for longevity. The sealed units like H100 have a good reputation but still more to go wrong.
Is this Noctua LC a closed system?

I just really don't know anything about liquid cooling at all but I did some research and a lot of them require you to do a bunch of upkeep or maintenance and I would rather get something I don't have to flush and clean every week/month and refill yearly.

The thing is more than that I want to protect my investment in all these expensive parts and make sure my cooling is more than going to cover the amount of heat the parts produce because I'm going to be running this all day, 24-7 most of the time. I do long gaming sessions playing for 6+ hours on end and even when I'm not using the PC it's always on sitting idle or my brother plays it when I'm gone. I want to go over what I need, get something more than what I may need, in order to cover myself so it never overheats and damages my parts but I don't really want to have a complicated liquid cooling system that requires me to check the temperatures and do maintenance because I wouldn't know what to do going inside there and would be afraid to mess something up (hence why I'm buying the PC here not building it on my own).

Originally posted by bprat22

If money isn't an issue then, yeah, you can splurge on everything but the extra cache on the 3960 you'll never use unless you're heavily into rendering, etc.
Well I don't really know the true differences between the 3930k and the 3960x but I plan to do video rendering and uploading. Capture carding gameplay and all that. I don't plan to do it a whole lot like some youtubers but I want my PC to be able to handle it. If the 3960x is only $300 more right now I don't see how it's that big of an issue but I guess that $300 could be used towards another part or something.

Originally posted by bprat22

Keep in mind that there is no 'future proof'.   Whatever you put together now will need new graphic cards in 2-3 years if you want to stay on top.
I know this but I don't want to buy middle of the pack parts now and have to upgrade sooner, I'de rather buy top of the line parts now and delay the time til I need to replace them. Plus I might just not upgrade, atleast not right away and delay the process by just playing future games on lower settings. Graphics to me are the least important thing about games so I don't need to stay on top of that. I'm not really a PC gamer, this is my first foray into becoming one, so I'm not use to the whole upgrading idea every 3 years. I usually expect to buy a gaming system and then 5-10 years down the road get another. I guess I need to change that thinking but the case he suggested I watched some reviews on and it has that upgradeability so I know that is covered in this build.

Originally posted by bprat22

For thr money you're spending on a quality rig I would get a gaming monitor. Lots are happy with tvs but chevk out the Dell UltraSharps.  
I still fail to see why Monitor's are better than HDTV's? Is it the resolution or framerates? Cuz graphics to me don't matter that much. If it looks HD on my Tv I'll be happy. I could care less about stupid 3D. That being said eventually I would like a dual or triple screen set up because that just looks cool. I don't really have the room right now in my room for that though which is why I'm using my HDTV.






Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 5:04am
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 5:13am
I have never gamed on a tv so can't compare.    Plenty use tvs and are very happy.   Some have gone monitor after tv and will never go back.     I guess it would be best to visit a local electtonic store and see if you can compare the two.     If your happy with the tv then go for it.   

The Noctua isn't a lc, but a big block of cooling fins that dissipate the heat.   Both lc and Noctua use fans to blow through the fins to cool.    The sealed units like H100 are liquid in a sealed unit loop to radiator.   No maintenance with H100 or Noctua.   Both will cool about the same.

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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 5:35am
Originally posted by bprat22

I have never gamed on a tv so can't compare.    Plenty use tvs and are very happy.   Some have gone monitor after tv and will never go back.     I guess it would be best to visit a local electtonic store and see if you can compare the two.     If your happy with the tv then go for it.   
Yeah I'm fine with the TV and honestly if I get into games that require a monitor more than my HDTV it's always something I can pick up down the road but for now my TV will do just fine.

 
Originally posted by bprat22

The Noctua isn't a lc, but a big block of cooling fins that dissipate the heat.   Both lc and Noctua use fans to blow through the fins to cool.    The sealed units like H100 are liquid in a sealed unit loop to radiator.   No maintenance with H100 or Noctua.   Both will cool about the same.



Okay, is that what's in this video? http://youtu.be/9SgooUPp0UA?t=1m58s I think so... but I'm not sure.

Anyways I guess I boiled it down to some key questions;

  1. 1. Do I start my build with the Digital Storm Hailstorm Level 4 and build down or start with the Dreadnought Level 4 and build up adding better parts?

  2. 2. What do I go with? Dual SLI 680's or a single 690?  What's the pro's and con's of the 690, is it honestly that bad?

  3. 3. Intel Core i7 3960X or 3930K? Will I ever use that extra cache of the 3960? Is it worth the extra $300? I guess I don't know which is more important to fast speeds and loading times and all that, RAM or Processor? I know you can always purchase and add more RAM fairly easy but is it the same for processor or should I just go with what's better for longer usage out of it?

  4. 4. 32GB RAM vs 16GB Ram stick? If I can get a 32GB 1600 MHz is that a good sweet spot? Or like the processor dilemma it's something I'll never use.

  5. 5. Liquid Cooling. Is a sealed unit more than going to cover the heat my parts produce? Will I need additional fans as well? Is the Noctua D14 the better choice if I'm looking for longevity? Or would something like the H100 be fine? I don't want something that there's a chance something could go wrong because I know little of upkeep and checking temperatures so that it never overheats and damages my expensive parts. I'de rather buy something that is more than what I need and have the peace of mind of not having to constantly check it. Also more than what I need now because I need to think ahead and cover myself down the road in case I add new parts. I'm going to be running this all day, 24-7. May not be using it all 24 hours but I will be using it for long gaming sessions, extended periods of time upwards of 12+ hours somedays, and I don't want it to overheat.

  6. 6. ASUS Rampage or Sabertooth? Rampage gives me more headroom for future upgrades, Quad SLI support, etc and I was told Motherboard is the least upgradeable part so go all out on getting the best one now for longevity. I know I cannot future-proof myself on every part but I would think Motherboard I could get a good one for now and down the road.

  7. 7. Is 1050W (Corsair Pro Silver 1050HX) power supply enough and does it give me some future headroom to add parts to my PC and cover their cost as well?



Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 5:44am
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  Quote ArkansasWoman777 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 6:05am
Yea that is the noctua in the video. I can't give you much help on the other questions though.
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 6:52am
Yes that is the Noctua NH-D14 in the link you posted.
 
There is nothing wrong with wanting the best parts.  This is going to be your computer afterall. 
 
My answers to your questions are as follows:
 
1.  The case in the Hailstorm build is the Corsair 800D.  It is really designed for full liquid cooling, CPU and GPUs.  That would be stage 6 liquid cooling.  There is maintence involved in this which you stated you want to avoid.  You can make this case work on air cooling but you will need to have additional fans added to provide air cooling to the rest of the components.  Many folks do get the Cosair 800D and make it work on air.
 
The case in the Dreadnought, the HAF X, is designed with air cooling in mind.  Even if you end up going with the H100 sealed liquid cooling for the CPU the rest of your components will still be air cooled.  So in my opinion the HAF X case is the better choice.  If you just love the looks of the Cosair 800D then go for it.  I actually have both a Hailstorm system (full liquid cooled) and a Dreadnought System (fully air cooled). 
 
2. My case for going with dual GTX 680s is stated in my build above.  About the only real benifit of the GTX 690 is it does use slightly less power.  Again see the link above.  Since dual GTX 680s give better performance and you are looking for the best performance then the dula GTX 680s would seem to be the best fit for you. 
 
3.  Both the i7 3960X and the i7 3930K both use the X79 chipset.  The i7 3960 has a faster stock clock speed and a larger cache.  Since both can be overclocked the speed difference is a moot issue.  As bprat22 stated the only time the extra cache will be used is in heavy video editing and rendering.  Both will be excellent for you use.  If you want the best go for the 3960.  If you want to save a few bucks then get the 3930.
 
4.  With you video editing, rendering and multitasking I would get 32GB of RAM.
 
5.  Both the Corsair H100i and the Noctua NH-D14 will cool your CPU about the same.  The H100 is a sealed unit so no maintenance required but there is more to go wrong with it than the D14.  I would go with the NH-D14 but both have good track records.
 
6.  The Sabertooth can handle tri SLI and the Rampage can handle quad SLI.  The Sabertooth is build to military specs so it has a longer warranty (5yrs vs 3yrs).  If you are looking for the best of the best then get the Rampage.  Either way you will love the performance.
 
7.  The 1050HX will handle your system no problems.  There is even headroom to go to tri SLI.  If you even went to quad SLI then you might need to go to a 1200w PSU.  Since the 1050HX is semi modular, it would be easy to replace.  The only cables hard wired into the 1050HX are for the motherboard.  All you would need to do is unplug these from the motherboard and the rest of the cables you unplug from the back of the PSU.  So you will not have to re-rout any cables except for the motherboard cables.
 
Again this is your computer and if you want the best of the best there is nothing wrong with that.  If it is withing your budget go for it.


Edited by Asangard - 12 Feb 2013 at 7:27am
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 7:13am
Ah, one other thing.  Glad to see you are going to have this out in the open.  Much better.Big%20Smile  I would now go with stage 2 OC.
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 7:51am
Originally posted by Asangard

Yes that is the Noctua NH-D14 in the link you posted.
 
There is nothing wrong with wanting the best parts.  This is going to be your computer afterall. 


Okay thank you once again for responding. You're the best Asangard very helpful!

Originally posted by Asangard


 
My answers to your questions are as follows:
 
1.  The case in the Hailstorm build is the Corsair 800D.  It is really designed for full liquid cooling, CPU and GPUs.  That would be stage 6 liquid cooling.  There is maintence involved in this which you stated you want to avoid.  You can make this case work on air cooling but you will need to have additional fans added to provide air cooling to the rest of the components.  Many folks to get the Cosair 800D and make it work on air.
 
The case in the Dreadnought, the HAF X, is designed with air cooling in mind.  Even if you end up going with the H100 sealed liquid cooling for the CPU the rest of your components will still be air cooled.  So in my opinion the HAF X case is the better choice.  If you just love the looks of the Cosair 800D then go for it.  I actually have both a Hailstorm system (full liquid cooled) and a Dreadnought System (fully air cooled).

I guess I would have to learn how to do the maintenance on a full liquid cooling system if I went with Hailstorm and that's not something I feel comfortable with. From the sounds of it I can keep my computer plenty cool with the HAF X and sealed liquid cooling? Right? I can run it 24-7 and not have to worry about it overheating? or No?

The only other question I have regarding this is... Is there anyway that I can get this (http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6683) Cooler Master HAF X NVIDIA Edition Case through Digital Storm? Maybe paying extra / waiting longer it don't matter to me... The Cooler Master HAF X NVIDIA Edition Gaming Computer Case to me looks 100Xs better than the plain version. I love the Cooler Master 942 HAF X case's functionality and design but the plain black is beyond ugly and one red LED fan is boring. I never thought I'de be saying this but if I'm going to spend nearly $5k on a computer I guess I want to get something that worth bragging about. If I am going to have it out in the open now instead of tucked away in some desk I think I want something that looks good and that I'll want to show off/look at myself. My favorite colors are Purple, Black, and Lime Green. If I got the NVIDIA Edition I could have a Black/Lime Green case and then with internal lighting (UV) I could have purple glow effect from the inside or through purple LED fan lights or something.

 
Originally posted by Asangard

2. My case for going with dual GTX 680s is stated in my build above.  About the only real benifit of the GTX 690 is it does use slightly less power.  Again see the link above.  Since dual GTX 680s give better performance and you are looking for the best performance then the dula GTX 680s would seem to be the best fit for you.
That's what I had thought originally then my friends told me no the 690 was better but I had my doubts. My friend who runs a computer shop though told me that getting two of the same kind is better cuz they help each other out. I guess now I am leaning towards going dual SLI 680's again. As long as Digital Storm will put them together I should have no problems with the whole SLI setup and like you said if one goes bad I can always fall back on just one 680 until I can replace the other.


 
Originally posted by Asangard

3.  Both the i7 3960X and the i7 3930K both use the X79 chipset.  The i7 3960 has a faster stock clock speed and a larger cache.  Since both can be overclocked the speed difference is a moot issue.  As bprat22 stated the only time the extra cache will be used is in heavy video editing and rendering.  Both will be excellent for you use.  If you want the best go for the 3960.  If you want to save a few bucks then get the 3930.

I think the amount of heavy video editing and rendering that I'll be doing is minimal so the extra money might not be worth it. Since they are both x79 chipset, both 6 core, and both can be Extreme Overclocked to near 4GHz I think I may just save the extra $300 and spend it somewhere else maybe on a nice gaming keyboard like the Logitech G710+ Mechanical Keyboard or match my Razer Naga Mouse with Razer’s Black Widow keyboard. The one I have now is pretty crappy and dirty.
 
Originally posted by Asangard

4.  With you video editing, rendering and multitasking I would get 32GB of RAM.
I agree. Does it matter though which brand I go with as far as system memory goes? I see there is only two 32GB models Digital Storm Certified Performance Series one at 1600MHz and the other at 2133MHz [+$284] would the faster MHz be noticeable? I was only told to get 1600 or better but he did say it can go up to 1866 and 2100+ so I'm looking at this 2133 as a possible choice to purchase if I'm skimping a bit on the processor. I guess I still don't know which is more important to achieve faster boot up and restart speeds so Windows starts quicker and just makes for a better faster system overall with higher efficiency. No more waiting around for loading times and all that. So is it more on the RAM or the Processor? I know it's fairly easy to add more RAM and I think the HAF X has something like 9 slots to do so but I'm not looking at doing much upgrading any time soon. I want to buy something now that will last me awhile, not have to worry.

 
Originally posted by Asangard

5.  Both the Corsair H100i and the Noctua NH-D14 will cool your CPU about the same.  The H100 is a sealed unit so no maintenance required but there is more to go wrong with it than the D14.  I would go with the NH-D14 but both have good track records.
I am leaning towards the Noctua NH-D14 now but I'm curious as to what there is more to go wrong with the H100? Is the Noctua NH-D14 and the H100 the same thing, or is one liquid cooled the other not? I know you say they'll cool them about the same but will they keep my PC cool enough for extended periods of time. I'm going to be running this constantly. That's mostly what I'm worried about.

 
Originally posted by Asangard

6.  The Sabertooth can handle tri SLI and the Rampage can handle quad SLI.  The Sabertooth is build to military specs so it has a longer warranty (5yrs vs 3yrs).  If you are looking for the best of the best then get the Rampage.  Either way you will love the performance.
Yeah I never thought I wouldn't like the Sabertooth it's just I would rather get a top of the line Motherboard then replace it down the road sooner. I think I'm going to stick with my original plan and get a Rampage. Unless I decide I need to cut some cost somewhere when I start adding this all up, lol.

 
Originally posted by Asangard

7.  The 1050HX will handle your system no problems.  There is even headroom to go to tri SLI.  If you even went to quad SLI then you might need to go to a 1200w PSU.  Since the 1050HX is semi modular, it would be easy to replace.  The only cables hard wired into the 1050HX are for the motherboard.  All you would need to do is unplug these from the motherboard and the rest of the cables you unplug from the back of the PSU.  So you will not have to re-rout any cables except for the motherboard cables.
So would you suggest I just purchase the 1200W one now instead of having to do so down the road at some time or rather do you think I'll never have to do the quad SLI thing because by the time I will need to do that I'll just replace the two 680's with some newer graphics cards that come out? I would probably have my friend who runs his PC shop do any kind of work I need done on this PC anyways and I'm sure he knows full well how to replace a power supply and install stuff correctly.

Originally posted by Asangard

Ah, one other thing.  Glad to see you are going to have this out in the open.  Much better.Big%20Smile  I would now go with stage 2 OC.


That's what I was thinking. Messing around with a build right now and that's what I have picked, I'll post it when I'm done. Though I need to know if my cooling system you have suggested will cover that? I suppose I can ask all this stuff to Digital Storm too when I call about ordering this.




Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 7:56am
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 8:36am
1.  I have my HAF X with the Noctua NH-D14 cooler running almost all day with no problems.  I do shut it off at night but I could run it 24/7 with no problems.  I also have the CPU OCed to 4.5GHz (Stage 2 by DS).
 
DS will order for you any components that they don't stock.  So yes you can get the NVIDIA HAF X version.  They do charge extra for it.  You will have to ask them how much or Alex might see this and respond.
 
2.  Again here is a link that compares the performance of 2 GTX 680s vs 1 GTX 690 in different games at different resolutions.
As you can see 2 GTX 680s out performs the GTX 690.  They are close but the clear winner is the GTX 680s.
 
3.  The i7 3930K will do you just fine.
 
4. For games the higher RAM speeds above 1600MHz will make little to no difference.  You might see a slight boost in performance with video editing and rendering.  There have been some reports of issues whith the higher RAM speeds and overclocked CPUs.  Some have reported no problems while others have had problems.  I have not seen nor heard of any problmes with the 1600MHz RAM and OCed CPUs.   DS does use quality RAM sticks so I am comfortable recommending their RAM.  They do buy from different manufacturers so I couldn't tell you exactly which brand they are currently using.  The corsiar brand are excellent RAM.  If you go with the Noctua NH-D14 cooler I believe DS would have to remove the heat spreaders on the top of the RAM sticks as the cooler over hangs the RAM slots.  This really isn't that big of a deal.  They will still work very well.
 
5.  The Corsair H100i is a liquid cooler for the CPU.  It is a sealed unit meaning no maintenance required.  There are more moving parts such as a built in pump to circulate the water and fans to cool the water in the radiators.  The Noctua NH-D14 is an air cooler for the CPU.  It is a big block of fins with 2 fans attached to blow air over the fins and get rid of the heat.  Less to go wrong with the D14.  Even with Stage 2 OC you will be able to leave your computer on 24/7 with either cooler.
 
6.  You will be happy with either board you choose.  If the Rampage is in the budget go for it.
 
7.  I would stay with the 1050HX for now.  You most likely will never go to quad SLI.  Even if you do it is a fairly easy swap.  DS tech support can even walk you through it if needed.
 
You should have no worries about the cooling for stage 2 OC with either the Corsair H100i or the Noctua NH-D14.
 
 


Edited by Asangard - 12 Feb 2013 at 8:39am
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 10:33am
Your friend that told you 690 is best has no idea what he is talking about. I can give you same performance depending on your res for games with sli 670.

when you use a 690 you will realize it will run hotter, and louder and give you less performance then 680/670 sli, and because of all of that they tend to go bad sooner, there are many other problems with them that I will no get into or I think has already been mentioned.

As I mentioned as far as cooling goes, real LC performance starts at stage 4 cooling with subzero, the h100i will give you the same cooling as noctua, so why bother with inferior cooling when noctua can give you the same thing, also to match noctua you have to set the fans for h100i high which can make it loud.

as far as ram goes, Asangard pretty much covered it, once you are at 1600mhz with current platforms, higher ram will make pertty much no noticeable difference.

Also tri sli is better then quad sli in most cases, but again if your res is at say 1900 x 1200, tri sli or quad sli is a waste of money cause you will never see the difference between that and dual sli in that res.

keep in mind you can add/change all 200mm fans of haf x to blue or red leds, so all fans are leds. if you check the review section of the forum you should some nice all blue or all red haf x cases.

TVs don't make the best monitors.
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 12:39pm
Originally posted by DST4ME


keep in mind you can add/change all 200mm fans of haf x to blue or red leds, so all fans are leds. if you check the review section of the forum you should some nice all blue or all red haf x cases.
Yeah I'm liking the idea of making it look nice but I just like the NVIDIA Edition case the best and I also like the idea of putting LED lights on each fan. I probably will do that if I can get UV (purple) LED lights. Otherwise I don't really care for red or blue case or LED lights, just not my color.

I also think it would be smart for me to add a Temperature Display and Fan Controller on the front like this one. http://img11.hostingpics.net/pics/608223DSC05503.jpg I checked they are under Enhancements and are only like $70 extra. Would be nice to keep an eye on my temps since I'm not going full on liquid cooled.

Originally posted by DST4ME

TVs don't make the best monitors.
I know this. It's just I haven't used a monitor in so long and I'm kind of use to my giant 42" screen. Eventually I do want a dual/triple monitor set up because I've always thought that was boss looking but there is no room where it's going for that right now and I think I can add the monitors later on down the road. Probably wait a year and get one of the next models or something...


Edited by Cipher_8 - 12 Feb 2013 at 1:00pm
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 1:01pm
Unless you go Sage 3 or higher with liquid cooling you will not be able to use the UV lights.  It is the fluid in these higher end liquid cooling system that is UV reactive.  You could use any of the interal lighting though just not the UV.

Edited by Asangard - 13 Feb 2013 at 4:23am
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Feb 2013 at 1:32pm
Fan display / controller is pointless, the temps are not correct, hwmonitor or realtemp can do a much better job and they are free.

keep in mind the nvidia edition has green fans which you can't find/get anywhere, and keep in mind you want to add the extra 200mm fan to it, it fits 2 big fans on top but comes with only one, no matter what version you get.

It is nice to checkout correct temps with free software, but whether you have LC or not, is not an issue, your system with noctua will have great load temps.

AS mentioned by Asangard, led lights are the uv tubes/uv fluid, which you get at stage 3 cooling, the self contained LC units don't qualify for this.

I have a huge plasma and I still prefer the monitor.

check out dell 30" IPS panel, if you want boss this is what you want, not sure about multi setup, never liked those cause I can always see the edges, but to each his own, I would recommend starting with that 30" then if you still think you want multi monitor setup then go for it.

also if you are looking to go 30" or multi monitor setup, then you may want to think tri sli for which you may want to have a bigger psu, I think the 1050hx will handle tri sli ok, but I like a little more headroom with the cpu oc and etc.

Edited by DST4ME - 12 Feb 2013 at 1:33pm
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 12:17am
Originally posted by Asangard


DS does use quality RAM sticks so I am comfortable recommending their RAM.  They do buy from different manufacturers so I couldn't tell you exactly which brand they are currently using.  The corsiar brand are excellent RAM.  If you go with the Noctua NH-D14 cooler I believe DS would have to remove the heat spreaders on the top of the RAM sticks as the cooler over hangs the RAM slots.  This really isn't that big of a deal.  They will still work very well.


Okay so which RAM would you choose then the 32GB DDR3 1600Mhz Digital Storm Certified Performance Series (Highly Recommended) (Hand Tested) or 32GB DDR3 1600MHz Corsair Dominator DHX (High-Performance)?

and also which SSD should I go with?

256GB Solid State (By: Samsung) (Model: 840 Pro Series)

240GB Solid State (By: Corsair) (Model: Neutron GTX Series) (SATA 6Gbps)

240GB Solid State (By: Intel®) (Model: 520 Series) (2.5in SATA 6Gb/s, 25nm, MLC)

My friend told me about the new Samsung SSD's being really good having something like 200 megabit speeds or some crap but then I read that people were having problems with them.

I figured before I decide I should ask as I know nothing as to what to look for in regard to (IOPS) and (MB/s). What's more important the input/output operations per second or sequential read performance per second?

Might as well recommend a 1TB 7200 RPM Hard Drive as well while your at it. Which brand?


Edited by Cipher_8 - 13 Feb 2013 at 12:29am
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  Quote CmmdrShepard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 4:52am
As for the brand of RAM; I would say that it depends on what extreme cooling you are using, the Noctua nh-d14 air cooling for example is large and extend over the RAM slots making it so that there isn't much room for the height of the 32GB DDR3 1600MHz Corsair Dominator DHX to fit in the RAM slots.

As for the 1TB 7200 RPM Hard Drive, I would go with the 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black Edition, they come with a 64MB cache; I have installed a couple and have had no problems with them.

Edited by CmmdrShepard - 13 Feb 2013 at 5:02am
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 5:14am
If it was me I would get the DS certifed RAM.  If you want the best of the best get the Corsair.
 
Here is a where you can compare different SSDs performance to each other.  I have this link set to compare the Corsiar to the Intel.
Here I set it to compare the Intel to the Samsung:
 
Comparing the Corsair to the Intel SSD the Corsair is better in some things and the Intel in others.  Here I give a slight edge to the Intel 520.
 
Compring the Intel to the Samsung the clear winner is the Samsung.
 
Here is a article discussing the issues with the Samsung 840/840 Pro SSDs.
 
 
According to this article the problem seems to be with the firmware in the pre-production models that were sent out to different people for testing.  According to this article all production models have the new firmware without the bug.
 
Anandtech the people that did the testing in the links above and the article about the firmware bug is a very reliable source.  They have not reported any additional failures with their production model.
 
My thoughts are the Intel has an excellent track record with proven reliability.  The Samsung is indeed faster and the bug appears to be confined to pre-production models.  DS does back all the products they use in their builds.  If some thing does go wrong they will take care of you.
 
I have no problem with recommending the Samsung 840 PRO.
 
For the HDD I would go with the 1TB Western Digital Caviar (7200 RPM) (Model: Black Edition).  The Black Edition is faster than their standard model.

 
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 6:14am
786680 is the work in progress build I got going... I don't know what Sound Card though... ?
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 6:37am
Real nice rig. Drooling
 
Not sure those tall heat spreaders on the ram will fit under the HafX.  DS might recommend the low profile ram. 
 
 
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  Quote Asangard Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 8:12am
If you still plan on getting the NVIDIA HAF X case then you might want to consider the green interal lighting.  It is $10 for the lighting.
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Feb 2013 at 12:01pm
I just want to chime in and say that intel and corsair now have a good track record while samsung is the new kid on the block and its reliability remains to be seen.

Anandtech article also at the end says they are awaiting new samples but when have not heard anything on the new samples as far as I know.

keep in mind most of our use is gonna be in the 4k size so those are the speeds you want to compare.

You may have to change your cpu cooler if you gonna go with that ram, the heat spreaders may not fit under the noctua.

I changed your ssd and cooling, what do you think:

Ticket Number: 786797


Edited by DST4ME - 13 Feb 2013 at 1:24pm
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  Quote Cipher_8 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Feb 2013 at 6:07am
Well I might change my mind and go with the corsair instead of Samsung SSD then but I don't know yet about the cooling system. I want to see what Digital Storm says first but I really don't want a Liquid Cooling system that requires maintenance because I do not know what I'm doing on how or when to refill it and clean it. I wouldn't ever take it apart to clean it of algae or that metal build up stuff.    
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Feb 2013 at 7:35am
The selections can be mind-boggling.    DS can help alot.
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Feb 2013 at 4:01pm
DS does help but if you want an unbiased advise then you need to look for a lot of info or take the advise of the members here that have read the info from creditable places and understand how things work also, just a review from one place never is a decision maker for me, I trust sites like anadtech, guru3d, techpowerup, driveheaven, etc., but I trust them only so much, often I find problems with reviews or article or recommendation from all places, say 80% to 70% of the time they are good but 20% to 30% of the time I find flaws.

At the end of the day, these are the facts:

closed loop or not, you are going to have to mess with it one way or another, maybe because a fan went out or its leaking or pump stopped, that goes both for closed loop or not.

As for messing around and etc, here is some info:

the liquid in these coolers (closed or not) is non-conductive, which means if it spills it won't short anything.

for the zubzero, all you have to do is look at the reservoir and if its half or 60% full you just add a bit of liquid, now before you say "I can't do that" let me show you what that in tells, below you see a reservoir, it has a cap that is screwed in, you unscrew the cap and simply add liquid, feel free to use a funnel if you are worried:




Now that should take you under 2 minutes your first time, I mean its that simple, unscrew, put the funnel in and pure a bit of liquid thats it.

My point is that if you are not gonna go real liquid cooling/performance, then do so because you don't want/need it.

Also keep in mind that if you do get a closed loop, you are not experiencing real LC, so don't base any performance of LC based on the closed loop, the reason for this is inferior waterblock and radiator.

As for ssds, again facts, intel has been out for a long time and has a great track record, I'm sporting an intel ssd myself, I was against corsair couple of years ago due to issues it had and its controller track record, however the new controllers have 2 years of good track record behind them and some good speeds.

Simply put on one side you have the intel and corsair with proven record, on the other side you got samsung who is the new kid on the block, when you compare the 840 pro with the neutron gtx, the difference is very little is most places, only place samsung is way ahead is in file transfer speeds of 2GB, which should not make much of a difference to most people.

So ask yourself, do I want to take a chance on the new kid for better file transfer speeds, or do I want to go with one of the 2 proven guys on the block.

AS for cooling simply as yourself ""do I need LC?" if the answer is yes then ask yourself "do I want real LC performance or do I want air cooling perfomrance in a closed LC system?"

Its just that simple when you know the facts.

Oh btw, for a real LC system, you may need to top it off once every 3 to 6 months (as we discussed above) and its a good idea to flush it once every 3 years, you can make this very easy for yourself by asking DS to install quick release valves for you which make flushing very simple and easy, I could teach your 12 year old cousin that has never seen a pc how to do it in 5 minutes.

Hope all that helps
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  Quote Alex Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Feb 2013 at 4:15pm
I just wanted to say it's always impressive to see the length of detail and help all of you provide. Thank you everyone for your support for helping our new customers.
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Feb 2013 at 4:22pm
Thank you Alex and DS for being great

Edited by DST4ME - 15 Feb 2013 at 4:49pm
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  Quote Alex Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Feb 2013 at 4:31pm
You're welcome!
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  Quote HockeyBuck Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 Feb 2013 at 9:58am
Better check first with DS sales to see if the 2011 NVidia Half-X NV-942-KKN1 version green case is still available from Cooler Master....newegg is out of stock.     If it can still be ordered, the side window itself is green tinted in that case, and the front 230mm x 30mm fan is green LED.    
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  Quote tju76 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 Feb 2013 at 12:51pm
Even if the liquid is non conductive it will not stay that way over time it will become conductive just like regular water, things like dust debris in the loop will quicken the process
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  Quote DST4ME Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 17 Feb 2013 at 11:11am
If the loop is closed, nothing get in there, if you have dust in your loop then something is wrong with your loop.

only thing in your loop is gonna be from the rad and etc, even after 3 to 5 years a proper loop will not become conductive, but one flushes the liquid out anyways.

For non conductive liquid to become conductive you need excessive dust or contact with conductive fluid, neither of which should happen in a proper airtight loop.

No matter what one should always take proper care to not spill any kind of liquid in the system period.

But yes if a loop is not airtight and neglected for a long time, then you will endup with conductive liquid

Edited by DST4ME - 17 Feb 2013 at 11:28am
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