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Post Date: 2007-10-11

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Mysty View Drop Down
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  Quote Mysty Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: HDTV & Computer
    Posted: 11 Oct 2007 at 7:17am
Well I may know about Computer Hardware; but Im actually clueless when it comes to TV; and connecting the TV up to my Computer.  So I have lots of Questions for those in the Know.
 
Now Ive pretty much decided on my Rig; which is top of the Line; SLI; you can see it in the Config Forums if interested.  Well I will aslo be shopping for a new TV - Flat Panel - HDTV of Course.  So here are my ?'s.
 
What are the Best Brands at this Point to get in HDTV?
How do I Hook my Computer up to my new TV?  I may even want to play games on my new TV Screen.
Do I have to get a TV Tuner Card or is their another way I can control uploads from Computer to TV?
In case Im not clear; I want to Download a Movie then instead of playing it on my 22" Samsung; I want to play it on my TV; for instance been debating going back to Netflix where you can watch any movie you want immediately. 
 
So how do I set this all up; what type of remote do I get so I dont have to get off my ass?  And any other info you can provide.
 
Any Suggestions on a Good Size; now I dont want those gigantic ones; cause I personally dont really like the pictures; unless you have mega bucks to spend;  I want good pic for my $$.  I figure between 55" - 70" screen size
 
I actually just checked this out and it seems it may have everything I want; it has a PC connection too if Im reading the Specs correctly. 
 

Samsung - 63" 1080p Flat-Panel Plasma HDTV

Model: FPT6374 | SKU: 8321318
 
Thanks
chris


Edited by Mysty - 11 Oct 2007 at 7:37am
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EdH63 View Drop Down
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  Quote EdH63 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Oct 2007 at 10:13am
I recently purchased a Samsung 50" 1080P Plasma and Samsung Blue Ray Player.  I'm very satisfied with both pieces of equipment.  I would recommend spending the extra $350.00 to have your Plasma calibrated though.  It will keep it from burning so hot, which equals less wear and tear on hardware, and will define the colors so they look more real to life.  The blacks will have definition to them and not be so blocked and solid.  The set-ups you see in the stores are factory set and are way too color rich.  This is simply marketing on the factory and retail end too assure you will see the displays from across the building.

If you buy HDMI equipment, make sure and buy the best cabling.  Buy cabling that has gold anodized tips and prongs.  You'll spend more, but the end result is that the transfer of information will be at its peak.  You spend top dollar for your hardware, so spend top dollar for the transfer process.  I would also recommend buying a power regulator unit.  Monster has good cabling for high end hardware, however, stay away from Monster's power regulator box.  In side by side testing, the Monster power box didn't live up to the standard against Powermax.  I purchased a Powermax power regulator and all of my equipment is plugged into it.  It takes the place of a power strip.  It will keep the right amount of juice you need to each component and help your home theater produce the best picture and sound that it was was intended to produce.  Again, you spend a lot for the hardware, then keep it safe.  Powermax will also replace any piece of hardware that gets fried by lightning or power surges due to the failure of the Powermax box.  Can't beat that.

I am extremely impressed with Blue Ray.  It has the best reproduction of picture out there right now.  You will find higher levels of "great" out there depending on the brand you buy, but there is a point of diminishing return where the eye can only see beyond a certain resolution.  Don't throw dollars at things that don't matter.  Pioneer has one of the best Blue Rays out there... but pricey.

Lots of info on this equipment, so read up on it.  My wife won't let me hook my rig up to the 50", so I couldn't tell you how it works on that end.  Although, that Plasma you're thinking about has everything you need to hook up your rig to it.  Just read the instruction book and you should be able to get it done.
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Tyler Lowe View Drop Down
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  Quote Tyler Lowe Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Oct 2007 at 12:28pm

You should be able to get a DVD based setup disk to make adjustments to color, tint, contrast and brightness for ~$50. Make sure the setup disk includes a blue filter (a small strip of blue tinted plastic you look through while making adjustments) as you'll need it to adjust tint properly. Unless the set requires a change in voltage levels to reach proper adjustments, IMHO there is no reason to pay someone else over $300 to adjust your settings.

Ed is correct about the factory settings, they are complete crap. Not only the color, but the contrast is normally cranked up to the point of visual distortion, as are the "sharpness" adjustment and brightness levels. If you properly adjust the set, give the new settings a chance for a week before you make any decisions on changing them back to the overdriven defaults. People are so used to poor image quality, that a properly adjusted set will often look unappealing at first. Once you become accustomed to it however, you will never want to go back.

For best picture quality, set up defused lighting behind the TV, ideally mimicking the color(temp) of sunlight as closely as possible. Next best, if you intend to wall mount, is to the sides, worst case for lighting is in front of the set. Depending on window location in the room, you may want to invest in some good quality shades/blinds if you have not done so already. There's more, but I'm not going to suggest repainting the room LOL.

 
Caution with 16:9 plasma sets: do not view 4:3 content at it's native aspect ratio. Use one of the expand modes to avoid uneven burn in on your TV screen.
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EdH63 View Drop Down
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  Quote EdH63 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Oct 2007 at 1:32pm
I didn't care to go to the trouble of hoping I did the adjustments correctly.  It was worth the dollars to have someone else do it for me.

The set will look a bit bland after adjusting.  As Tyler said, give it a week or so before re-adjusting.  If you do readjust, make sure to log all your new settings after calibration down.  Then you know where to go back to if needed.  I took my color up 3 notches from calibration simply because I did want a little richer look.  Remember though, the more you add back, the hotter the set will burn.

As far as burn in goes, it still can happen, but your set will have burn out programs that can eliminate that from becoming permanent if it does happen.  I haven't had any issue thus far with mine.  Plasmas are glass screens, and like Tyler mentions, location is key to great viewing.  Glare becomes a factor and that's one of the major differences between LCD and Plasma.  Although, you can purchase Plasmas with a low glare screen.  The down side to that is you'll diminish some of the richness Plasmas are known for.

Oh, by the way, a fantastic remote to invest into is the Logitech/Harmony 890 Remote.  It'll run you close to $400.00, but it will program any and all your remotes into it.  I have a Bose Lifestyle 35 Surround Sound, Bose patio speakers, Blue Ray Disk, Samsung Plasma and a Sony 6 Disk Changer all on the Harmony.  The Harmony Remote has software you load onto your PC and you program and run updates from there.  It comes with a USB cable to connect with.  This remote can also be programed to dim lights in your house, open and close electric blinds on your windows by the use of Z Wave.  It's an awesome remote if you have multiple remotes laying around.
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  Quote EdH63 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 Oct 2007 at 1:40pm
Originally posted by Tyler Lowe

You should be able to get a DVD based setup disk to make adjustments to color, tint, contrast and brightness for ~$50. Make sure the setup disk includes a blue filter (a small strip of blue tinted plastic you look through while making adjustments) as you'll need it to adjust tint properly. Unless the set requires a change in voltage levels to reach proper adjustments, IMHO there is no reason to pay someone else over $300 to adjust your settings.

Ed is correct about the factory settings, they are complete crap. Not only the color, but the contrast is normally cranked up to the point of visual distortion, as are the "sharpness" adjustment and brightness levels. If you properly adjust the set, give the new settings a chance for a week before you make any decisions on changing them back to the overdriven defaults. People are so used to poor image quality, that a properly adjusted set will often look unappealing at first. Once you become accustomed to it however, you will never want to go back.

For best picture quality, set up defused lighting behind the TV, ideally mimicking the color(temp) of sunlight as closely as possible. Next best, if you intend to wall mount, is to the sides, worst case for lighting is in front of the set. Depending on window location in the room, you may want to invest in some good quality shades/blinds if you have not done so already. There's more, but I'm not going to suggest repainting the room LOL.

 
Caution with 16:9 plasma sets: do not view 4:3 content at it's native aspect ratio. Use one of the expand modes to avoid uneven burn in on your TV screen.



FYI on the setup disk.  The menu that you access to calibrate is not the same menu that you as the consumer can access.  To calibrate you have to access the service menu which requires special equipment and a laptop to do this.  Unless you have access to a calibration unit, you're not going to get a true calibration.

This unit allows you to access color bars and pull the blues out of the whites and get the blacks even.  The tech that did this had to plug into a port on the back side of the TV to access the service menu.   Maybe you can get this equipment yourself and have at it, but just accessing your TV menu settings will not calibrate the set like accessing the service menu and doing it from there.

The tech also used a thermal heat sensor to gauge how hot the TV was burning.  He places that on the center of the screen while calibrating to determine the heat register of your set.

Maybe I'm missing something here, so correct me if you know more about this than I.


Edited by EdH63 - 11 Oct 2007 at 1:44pm
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  Quote Tyler Lowe Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 12:58am

Well, maybe Ed, maybe not. You've been recently in the market for one and have probably become pretty familiar with the lastest advances in the tech. I sold AV equipment for about 10 years, but it's been over 4 years now since I was in the game, and we all know how fast tech moves.

The type of calibration you're refering to rids the set of manufacturer's bias on the color temp settings, and it is the ideal, no doubt. Manufacturers go for a specific "look" to help distinguish their product, and to do this, they move the picture away from video true settings. For example, from what you said, the TV you purchased was biased towards blue (overdriven) by the manufacturer to give it a more "crisp" look on the sales floor. Some manufacturers tend to bias towards blue (Panasonic and Toshiba come to mind here), others towards red hues (Sony being a good example of this). Manufacturers vary in the amount of bias they add. Some sets offer very comprehensive adjustment of color temp through the consumer control panel, others do not. Mitsubishi used to allow for extremely fine adjustment (almost service tech levels) on their high end sets to the point where the advanced menus confused the heck out of the average consumer.
 
 It's been my experience that most users that do not fall into the category of "videophile" are able to achieve very satisfactory results with a simple proper adjustment of the consumer control panel. It takes roughly an hour to acomplish (including the 20-30 min to allow the set to reach normal operating temperatures), and once you've been through it once, doing again should you lose your settings, or as the set ages; becomes very easy. Lowering the contrast and brightness settings, and adjusting them as close to video true as possible will definately reduce wear and tear.
 
If you are happy with the service that $350 provided you and the resulting adjustment Ed, then my opinion of whether it's a good value matters not at all. Should you decide to grab a disk at some point, I recomend  Video Essentials . The consumer version is quite sufficient, no need to go with the version intended for installers unless you *really* want to learn about video. The disk is actually a great view, as it teaches quite a bit about how the adjustments work, and about video/audio technology in general.
 
One more tip for Mysty: Take a measurement of the distance you intend on sitting from the TV at home, and try to view from the same distance in the store if possible to best guage the correct screen size for your taste and budget. Ask for a chair if one is not readily available to sit in while viewing if the TV screen is displayed at a height where viewing from a seated position places you at eye level with the center of the screen. Remember the TV's always look smaller in the store than they do in your home Wink.


Edited by Tyler Lowe - 12 Oct 2007 at 2:41am
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  Quote bfrank2me Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 2:27am
Mysty, my vote is for the Sony 52"XBR4 LCD TV.  I just go this set a few weeks ago, and I'm in awe every time I turn it on.  Look at the AVS Forum under the Owner's thread for confirmation of what I'm saying, and if you want I'll PM you my personal experience with this set.  My last TV was a rear projection Toshiba, and while it was the Bee's Knees since 2000, this Sony brings me into the millenium.  I have it hooked up to a PS3 and a Denon 3808ci reciever right now, and the Blu ray is indescribable.  Eventually I hope to do exactly what you describe via a HTPC with Netflix streaming video - are you and I technological soulmates? - but no matter what, please go to a Best Buy or Circuit City and check this set out. 
Hope to answer more questions you have about this....


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  Quote EdH63 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 2:27am
Well, that'll teach me to ask before agreeing to terms.  I'll check into the disk so I can have it if I need to do it again.  Of course, at the store that offers the service, they're not going to tell you that that disk is available.  All in all, I am very pleased with the service that was performed.  Would've rather spent $50.00. 

Thanks for the input on the disk, Tyler.  Where the hell were ya when I bought the damn thing?
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  Quote Bigdog Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 2:58am
I really like the Sharp Aquos,  I have a Sharp Aquos 52" in my living-room and just love the thing to death.  I was really debating to myself or pondering if  I should get the plasma 60", sharp 52" or a Sony 52".  I am definitly glad I got the aquos, the picture when playing or watching anything in 1080p, definitly comes in Crystal Clear, I am not joking it's crystal clear. 
 
Of course everyones eye's are different.  They are also not as expensive as other sets.  Everyone has different tastes when it comes to HDTV's, I prefer a Sharp while others prefer Pioneer, Sony, LG, etc etc.
 
can you hook up a computer to a sharp HDTV?  crap I forgot to check that.
 
 I just checked, they have a PC input 15-pin  RBG x1


Edited by Bigdog - 12 Oct 2007 at 3:09am
Processor: QX6850 (3.3Ghz)
RAM: 4GB 1066 Dominators
Graphics: 2x 8800GTX 768MB
Sound Card: Fatal1ty
HDD 1: 2x 150GB raptor (RAID 0)
HDD 2: 1x 150GB raptor
HDD 3: 320GB western
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  Quote Tyler Lowe Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 3:08am
Hehe, no problem Ed.
 
I think if you do pick up the disk, you will gain a new level of appreciation for the high quality calibration. People that never have it done, will never notice the difference in all probability, but when you attempt your own adjustment, you'll be able to achieve settings much closer to video true. Just don't blame me if that disk gives you the sudden urge to move your speakers all over the place Tongue.
 
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  Quote EdH63 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 10:58am
Originally posted by Tyler Lowe

Hehe, no problem Ed.
 
I think if you do pick up the disk, you will gain a new level of appreciation for the high quality calibration. People that never have it done, will never notice the difference in all probability, but when you attempt your own adjustment, you'll be able to achieve settings much closer to video true. Just don't blame me if that disk gives you the sudden urge to move your speakers all over the place Tongue.
 


Well, I actually have the Lifestyle 35 Series and the Jewel Cubes are 13 feet above my head and fixed.  That's an area that doesn't need tweaking at all.  The tech asked if I wanted to mess with that but suggested not to since the Bose has the AdaptIQ.  I watched "The Kingdom of Heaven" last night in Blue Ray and it simply rocked.  The Powermax really did clean up and help supply the power transfer and I've noticed an improved audio and picture quality that I haven't experienced before in my Lifestyle system.  Not that the system was bad before, but you don't know what you've been missing until you take it to a higher level.


Edited by EdH63 - 12 Oct 2007 at 10:59am
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  Quote Tyler Lowe Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 12 Oct 2007 at 11:52am
This is another area where a non audiophile is going to be completely thrilled with the easy adjustments Adapt IQ allows. Bose is probably the *best* system for someone that does not want to have to figure out how to use a sound meter and noise generator to find correct speaker placement, and/or does not want to sacrifice a room's appearance to the audio gods. What took me hours of adjustments with my system, fiddling with delays and sound adjustments, can be done in minutes with a Bose Lifestyle (or at least aproximated so closely that the average user will never know the difference). Had I worked for a Bose dealer, we'd probably have the same audio system right now Wink.
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