How well will this configuration probably perform?

Welcome to our Forum!

You have waaayy overspent. First and foremost, the RTX 3090 is not actually a consumer card for gaming. It sells for about 2 times its MSRP, and is not worth any of the extra money.

https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-3080-Ti-vs-Nvidia-RTX-3090/4115vs4081

If your aim is actually 60 frames per second on Ultra, you have gone way beyond what is necessary in just about everything but storage. Why don't we start with the monitor resolution you want to use, and go from there? For 1080p a 3060 will be more than enough. For 1440p a 3060 Ti will do, and for 4K, a 3080 is a bit much. If you want frame rates over 90, say, the cards would be 3060 Ti, 3070, and 3080 Ti. So, what's your res?

The CPU motherboard and RAM are fine at your budget, all cutting edge, max speed for gaming at this point in time. Since we dispensed with the 3090, you won't need more than an 850W PSU.

You choice for primary storage is... say what? You're wanting to spend $516 for a slow-as-molasses SATA SSD that will load games about 8 TIMES SLOWER than a Samsung 980 PRO NVMe drive. Non-Volatile Memory express SSDs run off the PCIe bus at up to 7000MB per second read and 5000MB per second write speeds vs about 550MB per second for a SATA drive.

The following is my personal opinion, backed up by several of my friends here on this Forum: custom liquid cooling is an accident waiting to happen inside your precious computer. It will require you to constantly monitor it for leaks, add fluid, and sometimes completely drain it, flush it with distilled water and re-fill it. A FACT is that it will not make a significant difference in your operating temperatures. It will require you to completely re-plumb your loop if you ever wish to upgrade your CPU or your GPU. if that sounds like a whole lot of fun, get Hydrolux Pro.

With your high-end motherboard, you have no need for a Corsair Commander. Fun fact: there are no Corsair parts in your build but that one. Your mobo will allow you complete control over your fan profiles.

I'm interested to hear why you want a TPM module. I've been here for about 4 years straight, and no one has ever ordered one that I can recall. Winddows 11 has an extra layer of security in the OS.

Here is my advice for a build that will check all your boxes and save you a whole lot of money and possible grief:

https://www.digitalstorm.com/configurator.asp?id=4169273

DO NOT pay for a 3080 unless you are gaming on a 4K monitor. It's a little overkill for 60 FPS at 4K, you could get by with a 3070. The 3070 is right for 1440p, and the 3060 Ti will kill at 1080p. With any of those at the proper res, you will get much better than 60 fps on Ultra on almost any game.

I know I left off the TPM, you can add it back if you have a reason. The Corsair Commander is nonsense IMHO. Don't need custom cooling. You storage is now correct. Stay with 1TB, the larger dives are not a good buy here.

Ditch the overclock and the OS "boost". The OC is totally unnecessary for these procs, and can actually retard performance in some instances. The OS 'boost' doesn't boost anything.

Hope it helps you. Any questions you may have are welcome.

As usual, @Cretae, has handed out good advice.

Originally posted by yourchoicess Quick question, how well will this configuration perform on games such as Borderlands 3, Tom Clancy's The Divison 2, and Payday 2 on high to ultra graphic settings? I'm trying to score for a constant 60 frames and that's about it.

Here you go:

Borderlands 3 RTX 3080 FRAME-RATE TEST | ARTIS (YouTube)

The Division RTX 3080 Ultra Settings Performance 4K UltraHD | Sloppy's PC Gaming & Benchmarks (YouTube)

====================

An unpopular mentality in the enthusiast/hardcore gaming sector, nonetheless, I think, you should pull back on the CPU somewhat.

Watch This BEFORE Buying A Gaming PC | PC Centric (YouTube)

Intel Core i7-12700K & 12700KF CPU Review, Benchmarks, & Efficiency vs. AMD Ryzen | Gamers Nexus (YouTube)

For further evidence, pay attention to the CPU usage in the previously linked benchmark videos. The Ryzen 5 3600 was only loaded 20-30% in Borderlands while the Core i9 9900K (an octo-core CPU with 5GHz Turbo) had at most 50% load on any core (that I saw) in The Division.

Basically, the CPU upgrade cost is better spent, as @Cretae (generally) pointed out, on other upgrades (e.g., storage).

====================

In support of...

Originally posted by Cretae Ditch the overclock and the OS "boost". The OC is totally unnecessary for these procs, and can actually retard performance in some instances.

Overclocking the 12900k is pointless and dangerous! Heat and Voltage testing | JayzTwoCents (YouTube)

====================

Originally posted by yourchoicess The reason I got a TPM module is that I heard that you need one or something for Windows 11 to work

I can't find any 100% verification, but recent boards (e.g., Z490, Z590, X570) have TPM 2.0 functionality built into the BIOS/UEFI. Additionally, DS now installing Windows 11 as standard without any other default hardware options selected seems to be evidence the Z690-based motherboards also have TPM support built-in. A dedicated TPM module probably has a few advantages over one integrated on a motherboard. However, the motherboard implementation should be fine for basic Windows 11 needs.

====================

With all of that said...

Here's a configuration to consider -- a tweak of @Cretae's:

Config #: 4170023

The secondary drive (i.e., Storage Set 2) would be a place for your game library, etc.

Edited by MrCheetah - 13 Nov 2021 at 5:38pm

I agree with MrCheetah in most every respect. The 12700K is actually the better choice, but I didn't want to rain on your entire parade. When I said the larger volume SSDs were a bit pricy here, I meant I don't think $531 is a good value for a $340 Firecuda. It is fairly simple to add more storage as you need it, and not have to pay a premium, but I realize some might not ever wish to go inside the case. That said, MrCheetah's build comes in at the same price as mine with a huge savings for you. The Firecuda is a very good part, so go for it if you want.

I actually was comparing custom with an all-in-one liquid cooler as sold here. They are very effective at keeping temps below where they need to be. While many folks on this Forum have reported rather chilling tales of their custom loops leaking, I don't recall anyone has ever reported an AIO leak in the over 4 straight years I've been here. Since the vast number of AIO coolers has to overwhelm custom loops sold, I think that speaks for itself.

I guess I misunderstood that every future GPU can fit a custom loop with soft tubing. Again, my OPINION is it's just too much to mess with for too little gain.   

I don't want to extend this thread with a back and forth preference discussion. However, I think, a little more on this topic is valid for the sake of providing @yourchoicess with thorough information.

Below is a list of pros for each cooling type. The pros for one is typically a con for the other (e.g., an AIO cooler has no routine maintenance whereas a custom loop requires at least some diligence and action).

All-In-One/Closed Loop:
• No maintenance
• Practically no leaks -- The entire system is permanently sealed thus a much lower chance of a loose fitting, etc.

Custom/Open Loop
• Fillable -- The ability to add more liquid combats permeation/evaporation
• Repairable/Replaceable -- If, as @hoserator mentioned, the pump fails, you can replace that sole component without tossing the entire cooling setup (Well, even if an AIO fails, you can keep the fans)
• Resizable/Expandable -- For example, you can add a graphics card to the loop later and possibly increase radiator size.

====================

@hoserator: The HydroLux LITE has a combination CPU water block and pump versus the PRO's separate pump from all other components.

Question -- assuming @yourchoicess still wants to go with an open loop -- would it be worth the $266 savings ($213 vs. $479) to go for the LITE version?

Edited by MrCheetah - 14 Nov 2021 at 7:48pm

If coolants frighten you, or you require the cheaper cost option, or you don't care what the CPU temps are then by all means select an AIO and dont't think further. When it fails or performance is reduced, you will eventually have to replace the whole AIO head and rad unit...Had to do that a few times on my 12 yr old DS Ode and it's not difficult if you are familiar with working with computer parts.. No worries.     

In my humble opinion the HydroLux Lite option (offered here only in 240mm size rad) is better than an AIO of the same size because you can see coolant level in the small reservoir and keep it properly topped off. I own a 2 yr old DS Lumos rig equipped with HydroLux Lite, and have topped it off once after normal evap occurred around 13 months. See, as hoserator mentioned accurately, all coolers suffer some evaporation of coolant over time in normal use. With an AIO, you do not have the opportunity to see low coolant levels (black rad/tubing) nor can you ever top off that lost coolant.

Definitely preferable over both choices for the best cooling of CPU and/or GPU is a HydroLux Pro loop, as both the quantity of coolant in the loop, and the pump and reservoir(s) capacity will be much greater...making cooling that much more efficient & effective. Want the best temps, then you go with a HydroLux Pro loop. I own an 11 yr old DS rig using HydroLux Pro loop that never needed anything but yearly topping off of the fluid reservior level. The HydroLux Pro systems DS puts out now come with Quick Disconnects included on all the key points making any maintenence, coolant changes, or future GPU changes quite easy and painless.   

Make the configuration and price choices that are right for you and take my comments and any others posted here as a variety of views and info from usually experienced DS customers you can consider in making YOUR choices...and then enjoy using a quality hand built DS PC assembled and tested by the best custom rig makers in the biz.   

Edited by hoserator - 14 Nov 2021 at 11:19pm

yourchoicess,

Don't forget that Digital Storm Technicians are available to help you finalize your decision. The folks here in the Forum try to give you the best advice we can as Verified Customers.

I decided after much consultation to go with the following cooling solution:

Extreme Cooling: H20: Stage 2: Digital Storm Vortex Liquid CPU Cooler (Dual Fan) (Fully Sealed + No Maintenance)

I had previously went with air cooled on my current 12 year old Digital Storm OC beast but these new CPUs need REAL cooling in order not to scale down performance.

Remember you are the final decider on whatever configuration that fits your needs. The folks here & Digital Storm Techs do their best to give good advice.

This is what CUSTOMIZATION is all about. No more just picking out a preconfigured system that somebody else thinks fits your needs.

With Digital Storm the folks here in the forum & DS Techs work with you to optimize your configuration to ensure that you get the most powerful system available for your budget & gaming requirements.

My new DS beast arrives Saturday so I am super hyped. I am 69 & don't get excited as much as I did in the old days. You have picked the Best of the Best when you considered Digital Storm. You have seen the Verified Customers input and this is the time to consult like I did with the Pro DS Staff to balance my needs with my limited funds!

You are in Good Hands with Digital Storm!!!!!!!!!!!



Edited by Onkel_Ken - 16 Nov 2021 at 9:31am

Cretae,

Now I feel a little better that I stuck with the AMD 5900x instead of new Intel Gen 12.

But like the problems AMD had with Win 11 most stuff gets worked out in time.

Thank you for alerting us to the video!

Originally posted by yourchoicess I'm just trying to go with a liquid cooled PC that won't require much maintenance besides cleaning it here and there. I don't care how much it costs, I just want a PC that is excellent at running any game at 60 frames or more on high to ultra settings without the fear of it overheating or breaking. I am pretty new to PC gaming, I just got into it about 2 months ago. I will be totally honest with you, I am a bit confused about how you all are explaining things, and I apologize greatly. Since I do not ever wish to attempt to undergo maintenance on my PC, unless absolutely necessary as I fear I will cause damage to it. If possible, could you create a configuration that supports heavy gaming and no maintenance? The storage I am not that picky about, as long as it has at least 1TB of SSD. Please do not worry about the price as I am not focused on that right now.

No need to apologize.

All of the information highlighted in this thread is relevant and helpful. Nevertheless, I'll try to make this very simple.

Config #: 4174495

A handful of notes:

• You mention you're not worried about budget at the moment, although, there's no need to be wasteful. There are certainly somewhat extravagant upgrades in this config but they should provide reasonable longevity.

• The config assumes you will indeed to moving to 4K/UHD gaming in the near(ish) future. Otherwise, it's definitely overspending.

• And yes, this shouldn't require much maintenance. As you mentioned/acknowledged and @Cretae reminded, there will be a little upkeep, etc needed (e.g., routinely removing dust accumulation).

• The drive choice is a single (very high-speed) 1TB SSD. Having a single drive stays inline with simplicity. Regarding capacity, for example, your three mentioned games will take up ~150GB (75GB + 44GB + 31GB). Assume ~75GB for the OS and a few other programs. Of course, that doesn't account for any other media (e.g., photos, music). Last but not least, try to leave at least 10% (i.e., ~100GB for 1TB) of space free.

Edited by MrCheetah - 16 Nov 2021 at 10:09pm