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Just received - Video Card Not Working

Post Date: 2019-01-12

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DSNY View Drop Down
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: Just received - Video Card Not Working
    Posted: 12 Jan 2019 at 3:19pm
Hi all,

I just received a Digital Storm water cooled computer, the first PC/Linux computer I did not self build since the 90s. (I had tried to trade time for money, since I am at a new job and had very limited time.) Unfortunately, it has a problem I was hoping for guidance with.

The computer has two nVidia RTX cards in SLI, connected via HDMI to my 4K home TV. The boot card (closer to the CPU) shows the BIOS screens, and has problems when HDMI is connected to it. The second card works fine, but only displays the Windows desktop.

There are two sets of problems:

1. When HDMI is plugged in, it does only HD and sub-HD resolutions. At some resolutions, the screen will show lots of regular "noise" that looks like lines of horizontal bad pixels, every few rows, in a definite pattern. These noise lines flicker a bit. It does this in BIOS, in the boot screens, and in the Windows desktop. In Windows, it says it is using the Microsoft Basic Display Driver.

2. Once Windows boots, the Device Manager shows this card as disabled (a little yellow triangle in the corner), and when you look at its properties, it says "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems." I can tell it has a problem (HDMI not outputing cleanly) but I don't know why Windows thinks it doesn't have a problem.

What I have done so far:

1. Clean uninstall and reinstall nVidia drivers, twice. I don't think it's a driver issue, as the second card displays 4K 4:2:2 12-bit just fine.

2. Attempted to unseat and re-seat the card. This was very difficult as the water connection between the two cards is a hard metal connection, so I wasn't able to unseat it very much. I also removed and reseated the SLI connector.

3. Updated the BIOS to latest. Didn't have any noticeable change on video, although the fan(s?) now run full time and more loudly. (ASUS ROG Strix Z390-H Gaming) This might be a function of different settings from the factory configuration, or the Digital Storm Hydro Lux Control Center, and I'm not concerned with it (for now).

I am a bit lost as to how to proceed at this time. I have a tech support call in, but they said they probably won't call back for several days, and chances are I will be at work when the call comes anyway. So, I was hoping for some thoughts of what I could do while I have some time this weekend to mess with it.

Thanks!

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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Jan 2019 at 2:02am
Sounds like a bad card to me.     Some higher end boards have PCIElane switch module located near the ram that allows you to toggle the slots off and on.   Red switches on white box, or vice versa.   It helps isolate cards from system. Not sure if your mobo has them.

What RTX ? Nvidia has acknowledged problems with their RTX cards, mainly the 2080 TI, with blue screens, artifacts, etc.   

Have you tried another output, like dp ?

Just looked up your mobo..... it doesn’t have the PCIE lane module.

Not being able to completely remove and reseat the card is a big disadvantage.   That alone fixes a lot of issues.   Also why Hardline is never recommended by me.   Too much of a pain. Looks over function.







Edited by bprat22 - 13 Jan 2019 at 2:08am
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Jan 2019 at 1:02pm
Hi bprat22, thanks for your thoughts.

First, yes, they are two RTX 2080Ti cards. Disappointing to think I bought the card that has the most problems. :).8

Reseating: The tubing is not hardline, actually - it is flexible tubing. However, the connection between the two "water blocks" (I think they are called) on the cards is "hard line" in that it is a single chrome connector firmly connecting the two cards. So, to re-seat one I would probably need to remove and re-seat both cards simultaneously, due to the hard chrome water connector between the two. The other two water lines are flexible clear tubing. I have never done this before, and wanted to ask advice before trying it. I can also never remember which way the "tab" at the front of a PCIe x16 slot needs to be pushed to release the card. (The DS salesman actually recommended against hardline too, and I went with his recommendation.)

Other outputs: I did not yet try. I actually have a Dell 4k monitor elsewhere in the house with DP, so I should try and bring that to the computer, thanks.

Finally - it definitely has artifacts. See picture. This is through HDMI to TV via a Marantz AVR - which works fine on the second card. It has them at boot time and in Windows.

paste.pics/6be144b09298dda4941be637cd96fa00
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 13 Jan 2019 at 1:56pm
Good news with flex hosing.   The flex hose connections should be quick disconnect, QD. Just pull the QD away from connection.   Only a drop or two should drip out. I would disconnect the input and output from water blocks and try to lift both cards out as one. Fluid might come out of the water blocks . Just cover things with rags just in case. Try not to twist them too much.   

The PCIE locking tab releases by pushing it down toward the front of rig, away from the cards pins.   

Chances are you have a bad card.   

Good luck and let us know.   
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 12:18am
There has been an inordinate large number of those cards going bad. Must call DS to have it confirmed and replaced.
The water block will not leak when you remove the hoses. That is what QDs prevent. Like bprat22 stated, only a drop or two will come out. Be careful when moving both cards and make sure you keep them together all the time so you don't break the seal to the block.
Good luck and keep us posted.  Big%20Smile
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  Quote Alex Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by hoserator

There has been an inordinate large number of those cards going bad. Must call DS to have it confirmed and replaced.


We haven't seen too high of a spike, the issue is that there are hundreds of customers getting PCs every day right now so the forums will be full of customers looking for help and GPUs are one of the major components that fail or have issues after delivery.
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 4:39pm
I didn't make up the issue with those cards. Chilling


https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/nvidia-admits-2080-ti-problems/
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 Jan 2019 at 6:47pm
Thanks for the pointer to that article. Also, @Alex, thanks for your reply. I do have a support ticket in place from this past weekend. I am just awaiting enough time to sit down and do this re-seating safely before I report back the results. I will also bring my DP monitor down and test that, but have few hopes, as even not-plugged-in, the card shows up with errors in Windows.

Does anyone know how to get access to the errors the card reports to Windows that causes it to mark it not-in-service and drivers-not-loaded in Device Manager?

Edited by DSNY - 14 Jan 2019 at 6:48pm
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 11:22am
Update:

I brought my Dell 4K monitor with DisplayPort down to the computer and tested it out with only the DP monitor connected to the first card (closer to the CPU).

Alas, the boot screens came up with the same pattern of "messed up lines" as the HDMI. However, unlike the HDMI, Windows would not display at all on the DisplayPort connection so after the boot screen with the twirling dots, the screen simply froze until I plugged it into the other card at which point the Windows login screen appeared. I tried it a few times, including from cold (power off) boots.

I don't know much about the architecture of these cards, but the regular pattern of interference would seem to imply a problem with the framebuffer memory or the hardware that reads out said memory and sends it to output. It must be at a higher layer than the actual PHY that does the output, as HDMI and DP have very different protocols, yet the visual result is similar, leading me to believe it's further up the chain. I can upload the picture if desired, but it looks nearly identical to paste.pics above (just smaller, as it is a 27" vs 85" display).

How do I update my DS support ticket to indicate that I need a replacement card, it seems?

87548
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 Jan 2019 at 12:30pm
I don’t think you have to update the ticket since DS will have to test to confirm what the problem is anyways.    By their tests, I mean the procedure they have you follow.

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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 3:17am
They will probably remote access your system and run some tests and a bad gpu is easy to find. If so, they used to send you the replacement (make sure it comes ready for the cooling block, its kind of obvious but....) while placing a hold on your cc and give you some time to r&r and return the faulty one.
Keep us posted. In the meantime, disable that gpu and enjoy that system. That remaining gpu is very strong.
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 3:51pm
Well, I called DS again today. I guess I just have to wait for someone there to call me back, and hope it is at a time I am at home to do their stuff. I talked to Julie again, she's pretty cool.
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 9:15am
Well, I tried everything I could, but it really does seem that I have a "bad" card.

I am talking to DS now, tech support.

Here is what I did:

1. Removed completely and reseated both cards.

2. Removed both 8-pin power connectors on the "bad" card and swapped them.

Here is what I did not/could not (easily) do:

1. Swap the slots the two cards are in. I don't know how to do the un/re-plumbing, and the system came with no spare cooling fluid, so I cannot do this without some documentation and the fluid.

2. Swap the 8-pin power with the "good" card. The power lines are tie-wrapped to the exact length.

Hopefully Digital Storm will do the "remote in" and be able to ship me out a replacement card and some fluid (and maybe printed instructions) to fix this.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks!
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 1:31am
Really too bad you are having these issues, it takes a lot away from the pleasure of the new system. Do request extra coolant for the R&R and future refilling.  Keep us posted.

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  Quote Cretae Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 8:18am
Me, too. Everyone's nightmare has become your reality, and it just pains me you have to confront this. Very sorry.
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 8:34am
I appreciate everyone's support. Yes, this is unfortunate that it happened since my primary reason for buying from DS was to avoid the time and effort to build a new PC myself. Oh well.

I had a long talk with them on Saturday and the technician (who works for "Alex" above) put in a request to:

1. have a new 2080Ti with the correct water block sent

2. Have more cooling fluid sent, with a length of flexible tubing so I can refill the resevoir

3. Have stoppers sent to put in the water holes for shipping back the old card without getting it all wet

4. Have some more Kapton tape sent so I can re-attach the thermal sensor on the bad GPU that leads to the water pump controller

5. Send some instructions on how to do the replacement (although frankly the only novel thing is the water connectors as I have been building PCs since the 90s)

His initial response was to suggest sending the whole thing back, at their dime, for a repair. I suggested that was unnecessary since the machine works on one card and I am more than capable of replacing the card. This would save a lot of shipping money and time and effort on their part, and frankly a lot of hassle to repack the computer on my part.

Cheers!
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 8:40am
Oh, one minor thing. I strongly recommend against anyone purchasing this power supply:

"1200W SilverStone Strider (Fully Modular)"

We spent some time trying to figure out why one of the fans on the computer would spin up really loudly for a few seconds to 15-20 seconds, every now and then, and determined it was the fan on this power supply. It goes from silent to very loud every few minutes, and there is absolutely no way to control it (from reading their documentation).

The entire reason I purchased a water cooled system is that this is an HTPC in the living room, and hence it needs to be as silent as possible. It's also why I got two graphics cards, figuring they MIGHT be altogether cooler/quieter running 4K content/games than one that is pushed all the way to its limit.

Cheers!

PS: I have half a mind to replace the power supply, or even disassemble it and replace the fan with a quieter one or a fan-speed limiter. I have never done the former but I have done the latter with networking gear fans for use in offices and theaters.
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 9:09am
Thanks for the update.   Sending the whole rig back is definitely the last option.  Too much time and things that can go wrong.

I don't think I've ever put a Silverstone in a build to show people.  Corsair was always my choice.  Not that a Corsair can't have issues, but better odds with Corsair.

Better check on replacing the psu fan...opening the box might void any warranty from Silverstone.

Good luck. Big%20Smile


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  Quote HockeyBuck Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 20 Jan 2019 at 11:05am
Yeah Corsair PSU fans are efficient and nearly silent...
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 6:22am
Hi Alex, Digital Storm team,

I haven't heard anything from you guys about my replacement card(s) for a week. Can I please get an update?

Thanks!
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  Quote Psyoshi Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 6:49am
DSNY call them or email [email protected] much faster than waiting on a forum reply of Alex saying the same thing.

Edited by Psyoshi - 29 Jan 2019 at 6:50am
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  Quote DSNY Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 7:55am
@Psyoshi - Thanks.

Yes, I plan to call them one day this week around opening time. I just prefer not to be a nag, because although I do have a problem with a graphics card, my system is mostly functional (since it has two) and so I don't mind a little de-prioritization for customers whose support needs run more toward the "totally not working" side of things.
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  Quote Psyoshi Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 8:39am
Did you go to your account portal and submit the form? There is a spot for issues like that, RMA form.
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  Quote Alex Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 29 Jan 2019 at 3:24pm
You can also email me, I haven't seen anything from you yet?
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  Quote BeerHunter Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 30 Jan 2019 at 2:52am
I feel your pain DSNY...My PC with a 2080Ti came in on Monday, and it doesn't work either...sounds like different symtoms, but same result...2080 Ti not working out of the box.

I won't highjack your thread with my issue, but wanted to wish you good luck, and let Alex know that there are some issues with these cards out there.
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  Quote BeerHunter Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 3:10am
Hey @DSNY,

Did the new card solve your issue? I am waiting for mine (it should be delivered today...just wanted to see how excited I should be about it arriving tonight...

I hope you are up and running by now...
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  Quote Psyoshi Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 Feb 2019 at 6:59am
Yeah I have been waiting on mine to ship too... Getting inpatient, they put the hold on my account last week....
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