ODE 1 HHDPost Date: 2012-01-10 |
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Kslo4
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
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Topic: ODE 1 HHDPosted: 10 Jan 2012 at 12:21am |
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Hi, I just recently purchased the ODE level 1 and should be receiving it sometime this week. I absolutely cannot wait to setup and try my first DS rig. Let me start by saying, I'm certainly no expert when it comes to the insides of a computer. I did do a lot of research on general knowledge of parts, as well as ODE specific stuff. I first started out with my own desktop config, but quickly realized that the ODE 1 had almost everything I wanted, and for a better price. So there's no doubt I have made the right selection for my needs.
My biggest(and only real) concern with the ODE 1 was its hard drive. The default is the 500GB Western Digital Caviar Blue. From what I've collected, this is a pretty basic/low end HDD. I've come across several threads on these forums that suggest upgrading to(or possibly adding?) a SSD... the Intel 320 SSD is the name I've seen come up most. So basically, I wanted to see if I could get more information regarding the ODE 1 and its HDD, and a possible upgrade for it. Keep in mind, I have already ordered my system and it has completed all the stages and been picked up for delivery already, so I would be unable to substitute anything on my system for the $50 charge DS offers. I actually did not know it was possible for the DS guys to do such, until it was too late...I figured since it was a prebuilt system I was stuck with the HDD and could explore my options once I received it. I'm not broken up about it, but I'd like to hear anyone and everyone's opinion on the matter. What are the best options for replacing or adding to the HDD? What kind of improvements would I see for gaming/general use? Is it worth the money to upgrade it, knowing I already went $100-200 over my budget? Would there be any possibility of compatibility issues/errors with the rest of the ODE 1 parts or overclock-age? And let's say I were to upgrade or add a SSD...Is that something doable for a guy with basic knowledge and no experience moving around parts inside a computer? Feel free to add anything else that may be helpful. I'm not sure if it will help any, but I'll be using a 22" monitor with 1680x1050 resolution. I'm considering moving to a 1920x1080 but I haven't decided whether or not it's worth the money and harder work load on my GPU. I'd take suggestions in regards to monitors too if anyone has them. Thanks in advance for anyone with insight. |
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DST4ME
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Joined: 14 Apr 2008 Online Status: Offline Posts: 36758 |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 12:35am |
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Most important thing about a monitor is its panel, right now there are 2 major ones, TN and IPS, IPS has superior picture quality/clarity.
1. response time is a bs number, its there to fool you and does not represent the true response time of the monitor, there is no real way of truly finding what response time is, the closest to it is white to white but you don't see that, you see grey to grey or black to black cause they give small numbers to fool users but they don't mean anything, there are different methods to get these numbers also, and each will give a different number as results, therefore you can even compare one to the other, cause we don't know what method was used for which, and even if we did, still GTG or BTB don't mean anything. 2. contrast ratio is also bs number. If you have the budget go ahead and upgrade but for games like bf3 to get maxed out at that res you need sli 570. harder work for your gpu is a non issue, things do't work like that. your biggest concern should not be the hdd, it should be the psu. as for hdd, setup is suppose to be like this: HDD1 = fast small drive: os/apps/games HDD2 = regular large drive: media/personal/work file storage in this case hdd1 = ssd, hdd2 = good hdd we recommend the 1TB black caviar for its track record and speeds for the storage drive hdd2. you should add the 320 to your system yourself, simple to do, we are here if you need our help, we can walk you thru with images and etc, how hard is it? I can teach your 12 year old cousin that has never seen a pc to install it in 2 minutes, and it would take 2 minutes to do. cloning the os and etc from hdd to the ssd is what is going to take most of the time. |
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Kslo4
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 6:06pm |
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Thanks for the reply DST4ME. I may pick up a 320 SSD and stick with the Caviar Blue for my storage HDD. We'll see how I feel after I can finally try out my new system.
You said I should be more concerned about the psu? Could you enlighten me further? A couple questions come to mind. What are the advantages of upgrading to a better psu? What psu would you recommend for the ODE 1? What is the downside/dangers of keeping the 600W Corsair that comes with the ODE 1? Thanks! |
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DST4ME
DS ELITE
Joined: 14 Apr 2008 Online Status: Offline Posts: 36758 |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 6:19pm |
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Well I don't read a lot of good stuff about that 600w, when you hear somebody say "I don't read a lot of good stuff about that psu" it pretty much means it dies on you at some point, sooner then later.
you have a 1 year part warranty with DS so if that psu fails for the first year you are ok, not sure what kind of warranty corsair gives that psu. better psu is more reliable, can handle load much better for much longer, has a track record of performance and reliability so its proven, and it has a good warranty. I only recommend what I would use unless there is only one option, I only use and recommend ax and hx lines from corsair, they are proven and have a 7 year warranty from corsair. One does not recommend psu based on a build, its based on your needs, in this case if by ode 1 we mean a system that needs to do only one gpu and can't do sli, then I would go with the 750w hx corsair psu, great psu, proven, 7 year warranty, I would take that psu over the 800w gs and 850tx they have here any day. Now don't panic, this does not mean your 600w is gonna die tomorrow or something like that, its just chances are a bit higher it might, and just to be clear, any psu can go bad in short time, including the hx or ax lines I spoke about, but odds are much less that they will vs the 800gs for example. |
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Kslo4
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 6:51pm |
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Hey thanks again for the information. I am writing this post from my new ODE1 and I was wondering how to get the red internal lighting to come on... I can see it sitting there in the bottom, but cannot find a switch for it. Should it come on by itself or am I missing something?
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pos
Groupie
Joined: 29 Aug 2011 Online Status: Offline Posts: 188 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:01pm |
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There is alittle red switch in the back of the rigjust slide it to one side and you should have lights.
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the pos Loves His ODE3
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bprat22
DS ELITE
DigitalStorm East -- (Unofficially!)
Joined: 08 Jun 2011 Online Status: Offline Posts: 20391 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:04pm |
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Hi Kslo4 ..... For your internal red lighting there is a switch on the ODE back panel, below where monitor hooks to gpu. Flip throw switch.
pos beat me. Welcome aboard. Edited by bprat22 - 13 Jan 2012 at 7:06pm |
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Kslo4
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Joined: 09 Jan 2012 Online Status: Offline Posts: 15 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:15pm |
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AHH...I knew that had to be it. But I was scared to hit the little red switch on my first start up. Thanks!
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bprat22
DS ELITE
DigitalStorm East -- (Unofficially!)
Joined: 08 Jun 2011 Online Status: Offline Posts: 20391 |
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Posted: 13 Jan 2012 at 7:17pm |
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Yep,
red usually means DANGER. Not in this case luckily. ENJOY
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DST4ME
DS ELITE
Joined: 14 Apr 2008 Online Status: Offline Posts: 36758 |
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Posted: 14 Jan 2012 at 12:56am |
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LOL I can't tell you how many people have the same fear, I can totally understand it too
enjoy it boss
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