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overclocking the 980 Ti Strix

Post Date: 2016-05-02

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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Topic: overclocking the 980 Ti Strix
    Posted: 02 May 2016 at 8:27am
I have an i7 [email protected] GHz, 16 GB RAM [email protected] MHz and the screen is [email protected]

The other day I decided to attempt to overclock my 980 Ti strix with msi afterburner.
With no OC, I got 97 fps score 4088 on the valley benchmark. (1080p ultra). I use valley because heaven crashes a lot.

With an overclock of +400 mhz memory clock and +100 mhz core clock and no voltage increase, the fps increased to 103 and the score was 4332. The fans were at 100% and the temps didn't go above 75C (air cooled).

However, when  I opened Witcher 3, I noticed "artifacting" and graphical glitches and the temps started going into the 80s.

Does anyone have good experience with OCing this card while air cooled? How far can it really go? Can I achieve at least a 10 fps increase in Witcher 3?

I heard somewhere that just running the fans at 100% constantly with no OC, and aiming to keep the temps below 70C will help fps a lot.


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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 02 May 2016 at 8:44am
I don't overclock, but I would think the artifacting is because the oc is unstable.  You might have to tweak the voltage up a bit.

Keeping the fans on 100% won't necessarily help with fps, unless its keeping the temps form whatever temp causes it to throttle back.  I heard it was a low 65 degrees C and is about 13mhz every several increase in temp, but not sure.

Others might have actual experience.  Big%20Smile
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  Quote Snaike Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 02 May 2016 at 11:49pm
If you say his name three times he might show up...

Who? The self-described guru of all things OC ...

All together now: "Meller, Meller, Meller!"
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  Quote hoserator Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 03 May 2016 at 3:30am
Originally posted by Snaike

If you say his name three times he might show up...

Who? The self-described guru of all things OC ...

All together now: "Meller, Meller, Meller!"


LOL

+1  Awesome

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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 2:39am
the "Strix" 980ti is already factory overclocked.  the reference card core clocks are: (base) 1000MHz/(boost) 1075MHz.  the strix are: 1190MHz/1216MHz in the default "Gaming Mode" respectively.  

when you say "+400MHz on the memory and +100MHz on the core", do you mean you added 100MHz to the boost clock in the default mode?  did you increase the power target? 

i use Heaven, so i can't compare programs, but i get 101FPS/2544 score on my benchmark.  my GPU-Z sensors register 1430MHz on the core (boost)@1.18V VDDC; memory clock to 7600MHz.  my settings (using Asus GPU TweakII software) are: 1291MHz on the boost clock; 1.163V; 110% power target; my cards are water-cooled using DS thermal control board running on "auto mode".

the Heaven benchmark software reported gpu clock at 1531MHz and memory clock at 3800MHz (x2 =7600) during the test.  

at any rate, why the artifacts in Witcher3?  were you using any of the "game works effects" settings in game?  could be drivers or game optimization issues if your oc is stable.  any artifacts with other games?  Witcher 3 is a pretty demanding title.


Edited by db188 - 04 May 2016 at 3:26pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 10:51am
I added +100 MHz to the core clock in msi afterburner and +400 MHz to the memory clock. I didn't increase the core voltage at all. I set the power limit at 110%. The fan speed was on 100% all the time.

The GPU-Z sensors register 1430 MHz on the core. The VDDC maxed out at 1.990 V; I think the most I got in a benchmark was 6 fps higher when it was overclocked, but it definitely wasn't stable, the fans were noisy as hell and the temps were at 75-80C. I used Valley benchmark because Heaven crashed as soon as I started OC.

I play Witcher 3 at max settings in 1440p, it averages about 60 fps with temps ranging from 60 to 80C and the fans are noisy as hell of course. I haven't tried any other games while overclocked.

Now I wish I knew, it might have been a better idea to get a watercooler on the video card.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487144&cm_re=980_Ti_evga_hybrid-_-14-487-144-_-Product

The evga hybrid looks good, or maybe it would be a better idea to buy a graphics liquid cooler and see if I can install it myself. I just don't feel comfortable with exhaust fans that sound like a heater and temps that could almost boil something.

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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 3:13pm
if Heaven crashes as soon as you start it, that means your oc is really unstable.  if it crashes or freezes during the running of the program further down the line, that means you have some minor tweaking (either add more voltage or pull back on the frequency) to do.  

you should be able to get a good 10% extra (in game) performance from this card with a proper oc.  the ASIC quality of the card i was testing was MEH (75.8) and i can get a stable oc with the numbers i posted earlier.  

here's my suggestion:  set everything back to the card's default settings.  run your tests and find out where your base clock/boost clock/memory clock is at.  i'm still not clear on whether you added +100MHz to the (already) factory oc'd Strix card or if you started with the clocks at stock reference settings.  if you did, that can explain why you need to either back off 20-50MHz on the frequency or add some voltage (10mV increments at a time) until stable.  once you have the settings at default, run Heaven and see if it freezes or crashes.  if not, proceed to add frequency to the boost clock (it might say core clock on afterburner, but it's really the offset for nvidia cards) until you do get a freeze or crash.  then, back off 20-50 MHz on the frequency and test it.  if you pass, you can then decide whether to stick with that or add voltage+frequency for a higher oc.  true frequency and voltage in game will be higher that what you see in afterburner, because the bios makes dynamic changes as needed while under load.  you need to monitor with GPU-Z.  watch the VDDC and make sure it doesn't rise over 1.23V.  if it does, i would suggest backing off the voltage some.  

you can oc the memory after you get the gpu clock stable.  i settled on 7600MHz for my oc, but you should be able to push 8k.  tinker with it some to see where your card is happy.

your temps (on air) should be in the low to mid 70's with fans at 100% under load.  overall case thermals/airflow can cause this number to vary.  as long as you aren't seeing temps hit over 85C for extended time there's no need to worry.  leave your fans on auto and set the thermal threshold to 90C (you won't hit that really) and power target to 110%.  the card will adjust itself to those values. 




Edited by db188 - 04 May 2016 at 4:10pm
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 6:04pm
i've been playing with it a little today with these settings:

+215MHz on the gpu boost clock  (1291 MHz)
+15mV offset (1.78V)
+800MHz to the memory clock (7800MHz)
110% power target
gpu temp target = 83C

Heaven score  = 2560/101fps
no crashes/freezes

GPU-Z  reports:

gpu core clock 1442.8MHz
memory clock 1951.7MHz
gpu temp 40C
VDDC 1.212V
power consumption maxed out at 110%TDP (averaged 106%)

i also ran a 3DMark Firestrike 1.1 (single gpu) bench:

20.6k score on the graphics test
14.5k score on the physics test
overall score = 17045

the graphics score is where i'd expect, but the physics score is way low and the overall suffers for it.  i'm not really sure why the physics score is so low with an [email protected] i'd expect a much higher score.  

i noticed some throttling (downclocking) during the test as well at points during the test when TDP was reached/exceeded.  i backed the offset down from +25mV to +15mV and dropped the frequency to +200MHz from +205MHz afterwards.  i didn't see any change in GPU-Z VDDC readings (remained at 1.212V under load).  dropped frequency further (+160) and voltage to +10mV in order to prevent hitting TDP and downclocking.  

you kind of got to play with this and game settings at the same time to see where you're at.  i was running Witcher 3 at 1080p with ultra settings (no hair works) and post processing on high/HBAO+.  i was hitting 114% TDP at times and seeing the card downclock.  

the bottom line is that w/o a custom (unlocked) bios, this card (and all Nvidia reference designs) are heavily TDP limited even when you max your oc.  the card will automatically protect itself by throttling down (which is confirmed by the behavior seen in my testing).   Nvidia would rather neuter their card's performance than have increased RMA attempts from irate noob oc customers po'd about their blown up cardsCry






Edited by db188 - 04 May 2016 at 6:13pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 7:42pm
One more thing, do you have a liquid gfx cooler and what kind? I think i can handle the technicals of installing one on my 980 Ti. I would much rather see temps of 40 rather than 80, and fan RPM of 1000 rather than 4000.
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 9:25pm
i'm running my 2xsli Strix 980ti's in a custom (Aventum 3) water loop (EK water blocks and interconnect; EK pump and oversized reservoir; flex tubing) with the cpu and 3 rads (1x540mm; 1x420mm; and 1x280mm).  even with a 120mm rad, i doubt you'll see temps near mine simply because of the amount of total rad i have.  still, even though the air cooler on the Strix is a pretty good design, you can probably improve on it with a gpu AIO cooler. 

try looking at EK's pre-filled AIO Predator line of gpu coolers.  they offer bigger rad configs as well, which should improve your temps while oc'ing, if you have the space.  https://www.ekwb.com/news/ek-pre-filled-and-qdc-enabled-gpu-water-blocks-are-finally-here/

also: http://www.swiftech.com/


Edited by db188 - 04 May 2016 at 9:28pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 9:39pm
Success! my first stable overclock is +90 MHz on the core clock and +5mv. heaven runs smoothly with better fps and witcher 3 runs well with no glitches.

gpu-z readings were:
73C
103% TDP
1.1990V
1518MHz on the core clock and
1811MHz on the memory clock even though I didn't touch the memory in msi afterburner.
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 04 May 2016 at 10:13pm
I can only find CPU liquid coolers on these sites, do they work for gpus as well? or am I blind?
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 May 2016 at 3:53pm
with the EK unit you have to buy the pre-filled gpu block w/quick disconnect fittings separately (so it fits your specific gpu) and pair with the Predator cooling system.

the only problem might be the fact that you can't just use any 980ti water block if you have a Strix version.  i know that EK has water blocks for it (i have it on my pair), but i don't know if these are the same as the "pre-filled" units.  my advice is to get into contact with their sales team.    
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 May 2016 at 7:06pm
If i buy a gpu block with fittings can I connect it to the 280mm radiator I already have for the cpu? I'm guessing no. I don't think I can fit another radiator in my Apollo.
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 May 2016 at 7:58pm
not unless it's an expandable system (which i doubt).  there are only a couple of these "hybrid" AIO expandable systems currently available (and those from the vendors i already linked to you).  however, you can replace the cooler you have with, say, a 360mm rad Predator QDC system and have them add in the pre-filled gpu water block when you order it from EK.  it's something to think about, because it's not cheap (although cheaper than a complete custom loop).  
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 05 May 2016 at 10:30pm
So would it be possible to remove the 280mm rad and replace it with a 360mm rad, without removing the rest of the Corsair cpu cooling unit? And then could I connect a gpu waterblock to the same radiator?

So in other words, should I just remove the 240mm rad, replace it with the predator 360, and then replace the cpu water block on the predator with a 980 Ti strix gpu water block? With the predator can I connect both the cpu water block(from the corsair cooler) and gpu water block to the same 360mm radiator?

If I am correct, then I will be ordering the following components and installing:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xlc-predator-360-incl-qdc

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-strix-nickel

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc980-gtx-ti-strix-backplate-nickel-5058

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xlc-predator-360-incl-qdc

Maybe I can ask them to replace the water block on the Predator with the 980 Ti strix pre-filled water block before they send it to me so I won't be wasting money ordering stuff I don't need.

Hmm I think this makes sense now on what I need to do.
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 06 May 2016 at 12:23am
you can't mix and match from an AIO unit like that.  that's one of the limitations of those types of coolers.  that's why we are starting to see these "hybrid" units from vendors for people who don't want to invest in an all out "custom" water loop.  the hybrids fall in the middle between basic, non-expansion, AIO water coolers that are comparable in price to the very best high end air coolers, and full custom jobs that are prohibitively expensive. 

bottom line:  you'll have to completely swap out your entire cooling loop for the "expandable" unit, which starts out with either 240mm or 360mm rad+cpu block+fittings and tubing.  you can then have EK add their pre-filled, gpu block (if they have one for your particular card).  i looked on their site, and even though they advertise their new pre-filled gpu blocks, i didn't see where you can click and order one.  i advise calling them to check availability.  have your exact gpu model, mobo and cpu specs as well ready for them.  

and yes, a single 360mm rad can adequately cool both the cpu and single graphics card.  the pre-filled graphics water block comes with its own quick disconnect fittings and tubing to be added into the same loop as the cpu. 




Edited by db188 - 06 May 2016 at 12:27am
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 06 May 2016 at 9:50am
ok i think i finally understand this. although this site charges $52 for shipping, what a ripoff, but at least they have bitcoin for a payment method.
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  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 06 May 2016 at 11:17am
Originally posted by Snaike

If you say his name three times he might show up...

Who? The self-described guru of all things OC ...

All together now: "Meller, Meller, Meller!"


You called.
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  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 09 May 2016 at 4:00pm
Originally posted by Snaike

If you say his name three times he might show up...

Who? The self-described guru of all things OC ...

All together now: "Meller, Meller, Meller!"


Don't abuse the beetle juice power if you're not going to use it properly, Snaike.
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  Quote Snaike Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 10 May 2016 at 12:22am
Originally posted by Meller



Don't abuse the beetle juice power if you're not going to use it properly, Snaike.


Well, see, there's the rub. Had the call be answered in a timely manner there would have been specific questions for the "Meller-juice".

But another font of knowledge was quick to respond. (And, if I may, by the lack of rebuttal seems to have handled himself more than adequately.)

Therefore, while the power was used properly, it seems the response time is lacking.     
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  Quote Meller Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 11 May 2016 at 12:08am
Yea, well, I'm not always hanging out in a to scale model of a cemetery awaiting the call.
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 12:39pm
I installed the full predator 360 water cooling system, i have both the cpu and gpu hooked up to a 360mm radiator. Although I stayed up for 24 hours straight figuring it out(not kidding, it was great!), I finally have a full water cooling system in my chassis.

Only problem is, when I turn on the computer, there's no video signal. I can tell the pumps and water are working, the keyboard and mouse are flashing. I don't know what's wrong. Arghh. Could this be another stupid video card malfunction thing where I have to take out the video card and start the system without it?

At the end of my 32 hour awake journey, I hope I did not accidentally screw up something on my video card, that would really suck.(although I doubt its possible I permanently screwed anything up, i followed the instructions exactly in the manual, as well as youtube videos on installing water coolers.)
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 5:42pm
just recheck all of your vid card connections: to the pcie slot, power cables, battery connections.  reseat the card and memory sticks.  is it being seen in device manager?  any conflicts?  check nvidia control panel for settings/detection.  reinstall drivers.  let us know afterwards..and congrats on the new water cooled config!  i look forward to hearing about its performance once you iron out the problems.

please tell me you have no power saving or sleep enabled.  if so, disable them.

 any beep code on startup? 


Edited by db188 - 14 May 2016 at 5:55pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 6:20pm
I'm pretty sure all the connections are secure, I know everything outside the computer is intact, so it has to be something in the case thats causing the problem.
The hard drives are all plugged in.

I've reseated all the components on the mb several times. I've even tried removing the video card and booting from mb video, still no luck.

When I was installing the gpu water block, I accidentally made a small scratch on the very edge of the video card, near a screw hole. Could this possibly wreck the whole card and make it unusable?

There's no beep code on startup. I can't even get any video on the screen at all, that is my problem.
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 6:24pm
try clearing CMOS and try booting into safe mode.  can you get into the bios at all?

Edited by db188 - 14 May 2016 at 6:25pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 6:33pm
how do i clear cmos? I remember something from a long time ago called "flashing the bios" where you remove the silver circle battery on the mb for a while.

I can't get into the bios at all, there is nothing on my screen except for "no signal"
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  Quote db188 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 6:44pm
the easiest way to clear cmos is if you have a clear cmos button on your mobo (refer to your manual).  the next easiest way is to do it from the bios by "resetting to factory defaults".  next easiest, you'll have to remove the battery on the mobo (refer to manual).  finally, there's the shorting the mobo jumper method (refer to manual). 

you should be able to get into your bios and see an image of the UEFI unless this problem is actually something to do with your monitor. hold down the F2 key while pushing the power button-dont let go until you are in the bios.
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 7:51pm
Clearing the cmos did not appear to do anything, unless I did it wrong; I removed the battery and touched a screwdriver to the two pins for 10 seconds. Then i turned it back on and held down f2, I tried DEL as well. the bios still does not appear.

I think I will leave the battery out for an hour just to make sure it is clearing the cmos.

Edited by funeralpyre88 - 14 May 2016 at 8:03pm
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 14 May 2016 at 9:13pm
i cleared the CMOS and the bios still does not load, I still get a blank screen at startup "no signal".

F2 or DEL don't do anything.

Edited by funeralpyre88 - 14 May 2016 at 9:13pm
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2016 at 3:15am
If you have no display at all, then no way to know if you're getting into Bios.   A small scratch on the edge of the video card board shouldn't be the problem unless it's where the tracks are that carry signals, meaning the foil type lines .

Strange you can't get the igpu, mobo video, to work. Something is missing. Either a plug is off, or a component blew.

If it was me, I'd get a cheap video card that needs a pciex16 slot and try it.



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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2016 at 7:59am
i tried a 9800 GT from 2009, still no luck, different monitors, nothing changed.

What could have changed since I installed the liquid cooling system? I also ripped out the dvd drive to make room for the radiator. I hope I didn't accidentally damage anything when I was putting the radiator in.
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2016 at 8:22am
crap, now I see some small scratches on the far left side of the mb, right under where the metal outer bracket for the gpu rests. only one of the scratches crosses the gold line and goes into the area with the metal lines and metal domes and stuff. Could this be causing the problem?
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  Quote funeralpyre88 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2016 at 8:46am
http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q562/funeralpyre88/Picture%2015_zpsgfpiuyiz.jpg
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  Quote bprat22 Quote  Post ReplyReply bullet Posted: 15 May 2016 at 8:56am
Those scratches do cut across the tracks/traces where signals travel... Can't tell by the pic how deep, but any break in the track spells doom.  If you had the know-how with a soldering gun  and nothing else was blown, you could repair the track yourself, I have, but its an iffy situation. 

If anther video card is still a no-go, chances are the mobo is defective, assuming all the wiring is correct. 


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